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“Best Trip Ever”

★★★★★

written by BransonHatch on 19/10/2014

Just got back from Great Rail of York, USA Coast to Coast. Perfect organisation, superb hotels and great journeys by Amtrak, with private cabins on the trains, and in coach, better seats than first class on the plane. Expect your fellow travellers to be well off, well educated , well travelled.

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“We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by...”

★★★★★

written by on 11/11/2009

We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. This was a superbly structured, organised and delivered tour which enabled us to share an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience. If you have ever dreamed of seeing all of the USA without the use of planes, this is the trip for you.
Billed as an adventure this tour enables you to travel with a group and because they are like minded people, many become good friends. Our group of 22 (usually 30 - 35 would be the group size) contained 7 couples and 8 individuals, the youngest being about 50 years of age and the oldest was 86. Most were experienced travellers and most had been to the USA before but most were first time 'Great Rails' travellers.
During the 21 days we saw New York, Washington D.C., Chicago, Denver, the Rockies, Los Angeles and San Francisco. On the way we experienced the scenery of 18 states, and a wide variety of methods of transport from boats to cable cars. There are too many highlights to mention individually in the journey of over 3000 miles but particular favourites were the Durango and Silverton vintage railroad trip and the Amtrak Coastal Starlight transit from LA to San Francisco. Each of the cities were wonderful in their own way. Surprise 'hits' were Denver, the night on the RMS Queen Mary and an overnight in Grand Junction.
Organisation
After booking, Great Rails wrote to us approximately 10 weeks prior to departure to remind of certain points concerning the holiday and approximately 2 weeks before travel they sent final holiday documentation. Individual flight and train tickets are given out by the Tour Manager at check-in. No surcharges were guaranteed once we booked and paid. Great Rails arranged for 'add-on' stays for other members of the group. It is a condition of booking that you take out sufficient and appropriate travel insurance cover.
Great Rail provide an experienced Tour Manager, and ours, David Johncock took away all the hassle of transfers by dealing with Hotels, Amtrak, and local Tour handlers thus minimising any difficulties.
At several stages Great Rails provide excursions by coach and familiarisation tours in each City. Without exception these are excellent with informative and knowledgeable guides.
Basic holiday prices are expressed in £ sterling and are per person, based on 2 people sharing and there are supplements for accommodation upgrades for superior rooms or cabin/sleeper, or on planes.
Some points to note:
-Weather can be a huge factor; we enjoyed 3 weeks of clear blue skies and sunshine with temperatures in the 60s and 70s - you may not be so lucky.
-Hotel rooms, particularly in older properties, may differ in size and amenities offered. However, all the hotels used were uniformly good, comfortable and accommodating.
-American trains are designed for comfort and most Amtrak services consist of double-deck Superliner coaches. The restaurant, viewing lounge and most sleepers are on the top deck. Good quality meals are included on overnight journeys. Accommodation is a compact, two-berth roomette with two comfortable seats beside a large window, which convert to an upper and lower berth at night. Washroom, shower and WC facilities are available in each carriage. We upgraded to one of a limited number of private bedrooms (with a supplement) having a integrated shower and WC, while the daytime sofa converts to a wide lower berth and comfortable upper berth at night.
-The price of the holiday usually allows Great Rails to provide a gratuity on behalf of the group. But in the USA tipping is a cultural requirement - be prepared to tip an average of 20% EVERYWHERE. Of course, be prepared for the unique USA attitude to customer service!!
-The tour is planned many months in advance. Delays on trains particularly are likely to occur meaning changes to the timing can be expected. This will require the tour manager to react to schedule changes or local conditions. The sightseeing tours and excursions described may also have to be amended to suit local conditions or Public Holidays. We were lucky, 3000 miles virtually perfectly on-time throughout.
-Casual dress is acceptable and there is no pressure whatsoever to conform to one strict dress code - travelling across the whole continent, at altitude in parts, means flexible and multi-purpose clothing is a must.
-In general, porterage is available for all transfers, but Amtrak limit a single case to 22lbs. Therefore one medium case per person plus one piece of hand luggage is the recommended provision.
-Security is an issue - all USA cities have 'difficult' areas and not all Hotel rooms have safes for valuables such as passports.
Is this a holiday for you?
YES, if:
-You have a sense of adventure but are not willing to undertake a journey of over 12000 miles on your own;
-You are sociable enough to enjoy the company of people who begin the tour as strangers.
-You are independent enough to maximise the use of the half dozen 'free days' when you are left to your own devices.
-You are flexible enough to cope with meals of varying styles (Hotels, Diners, on-train, take-aways and picnics) at different times and of differing standards.
-You are fit enough to undertake and enjoy 3 weeks of almost constant travelling (Most of our group found the first 3 -5 days tiring whilst they got acclimatised to the 'routine' of the tour patterns).
-You have an open, yet cautious mind and a flexible approach.
But NO if:
-You are not fit enough to put up with altitude (Denver is the 'mile high city' and altogether you are at altitude for 6 days); mild motion sensations after long nights/days on a train or are not agile enough to get into your sleeping berth (someone has to have the top bunk!). Persons with significant disabilities will find train travel particularly difficult.
-You need satisfaction of particular dietary needs or regimes or find sleeping in an unfamiliar bed difficult.
-You dont like early morning starts and late night arrivals.
-You cant live out of a suitcase.
THE TOUR
Day 1 - 3
Our base for three nights was the Holiday Inn Midtown, within walking distance of Central Park, Broadway and Times Square.
We were treated to an excellent organised tour by coach of the City taking in sights such as Strawberry Fields in Central Park, Manhattan (including the site of the former World Trade Centre), and the river fronts on both the west and east sides of the city. As part of the tour we had a boat trip around the city taking in the Brooklyn Bridge, the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and the skyline of the City. The tour guide was very knowledgeable and informative. The Boat element was a public/commercial trip and the guide on the boat was extremely good and very passionate about his City.
We thought the hotel was in big need of refurbishment - the decor was faded and tired looking. Our room was clean and was adequately serviced. The bathroom was 'old fashioned' with an erratic shower but both queen sized beds were comfortable and gave us a good nights sleep. TV reception was poor and we could clearly hear the family next door. There was no in-room safe. We didn't eat in the hotel and the Pool was closed for the season. The concierge was helpful but on arrival it took the staff over an hour to deliver our luggage to the room.
Days 4 and 5
On day 4 we left New York from Penn Station and took an Amtrak train to Washington. The train journey was comfortable and lasted 3 and a half hours.
We were treated to an excellent organised tour by coach of the City lasting 4 hours arranged by Great Rails taking in the White House, Capitol Hill, the Lincoln Monument, the Mall and the Iwo Jima memorial. This was an excellent tour with a knowledgeable and entertaining guide. We spent two nights at the Phoenix Park Hotel, an Irish themed hotel. This was a really comfortable hotel. Two criticisms (minor) - we were surprised to see in our key envelope a guide to tipping which we thought was unnecessary and our room was partially stripped before check-out time whilst our cases were still in the room.
Day 6


We left Washington late-afternoon on the Capitol Limited. We had upgraded to a sleeper with an integral Shower/WC. Dinner and Breakfast are included in the price for a sleeper cabin. The Capitol Limited runs daily between Washington, DC and Chicago, and much of the early part of the journey before night fell was very interesting with pleasant scenery and a view of small towns.
Days 7-8
We arrived in Chicago after breakfast, and Great Rails arranged a City Tour that visited north, south and central Chicago, the lake front and areas of the city associated with the 'dry and lawless years' of the 1920s and '30s, taking in the site of the St Valentine's Day Massacre and Al Capone's headquarters, as well as areas associated with President Obama. Whilst the Guide was full of knowledge and expressive, some in our Group took exception to some of his 'anti-government' rhetoric!
We stayed at the Doubletree Hotel Chicago Magnificent Mile between the Magnificent Mile and Navy Pier. We were impressed that rooms had been prepared for occupation at 1145 on our arrival and we were presented with cookies on arrival. The room was large and comfortable and we slept well. The hotel was very clean with modern decor and a large and busy foyer area.
After lunch on the second day we boarded the California Zephyr for an overnight journey across the cornfields and plains of Iowa and Nebraska. Much of the early part of the journey before night fell was through extensive plains that can be a little boring though just before nightfall we crossed the Mississippi River.
Days 9-10
On arrival in Denver the orientation tour of 2 hours was very thorough and provided all the information needed to make the best of the City. We stayed in Denver for 2 nights at the Warwick Hotel. The hotel is about a mile from the main mile-long promenade lined with caf s and shops (16th street) but the staff tried very hard to make us feel welcome with an introduction from the Sales Manager on our arrival coach and lemonade and cookies while our rooms were made ready. We were impressed they were ready at 0900! I was surprised the mini-bar in our room was locked but I think this was because we were part of a group and hadn't lodged our credit card with Reception, we were not able to access this facility. Similarly we were not able to access an in-room film.
Great Rails provided an all day excursion to Big Thompson Canyon and Estes Park (Rocky Mountain National Park). Unfortunately due to adverse weather in the previous week we were not able to go to Big Thompson Canyon, but the tour of Estes Park was excellent. Barbara, our guide was knowledgeable and didn't try to fill every second, letting the scenery do much of the talking for her. She had however prepared extensively with information sheets she passed around the coach and toy animals to describe what we were likely to see.
Day 11
We travelled on the California Zephyr between Denver and Grand Junction. This route is regarded as one of the USA's most scenic rail journeys along the route of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. The journey takes you up into the Rocky Mountains, past dramatic peaks and deep ravines . The route follows the Colorado river through steep canyons and onto the plains passing Fraser, Granby and Glenwood Springs. This is a trip - all in daylight - you should not miss containing some stunning vistas.
In Grand Junction we stayed at the Hampton Inn. Both the hotel and the town were a pleasant surprise. The Hampton Inn is located on historic Main Street, spotlessly clean, the room was large with a large bathroom and both were well appointed, with free coffee and other hot drinks available all 24 hours in reception as well as free internet. Grand Junction consists of one main street with at least a dozen restaurants. The main street also includes 2 theatres, art galleries, clothing boutiques, antique shops and a variety of restaurants and has retained the quaint charm of yesteryear, thanks to its Victorian-era architecture. The streets are filled with almost 100 sculptures that are well worth a visit.
Day 12
Great Rails took us on a coach through the San Juan Mountains to Silverton, an old mining town. We stopped for a break at Montrose and passed Ouray on our way up the Mountains. Ouray is known as the 'Little Switzerland of the West' and would have made an interesting stop. The route up from Ouray to Silverton up the '$ dollar highways (with a road bed made from gold mine tailings) contains several hairpin bends and spectacular scenery including interesting mining works. We reached Silverton after 4 hours travel. Silverton is the northern terminus of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railway and we boarded the train for the journey to Durango which took 3 and a half hours while Great Rails arranged for the tour coach to take our luggage separately to Durango. Our tickets were for the standard enclosed coaches though open coaches and 'luxury' coaches are available. This is a superb ride for stunning and rugged scenery and especially for anyone interested in vintage steam trains. There is a refreshment coach on the train with a wide range of cold drinks and snacks. If you journey up from Durango to Silverton your picture is taken and can be purchased on the return leg. A guide book or a DVD costs $10. If you are restricted to sitting on one side of the train, my advice is to sit on the left side from Silverton, although sitting on the right side gives you a good view up the mountains. The clincher for the choice of the left side is the Gorge section after about 1 and a half hours from Silverton that is quite spectacular. In the case of poor winter weather the train often only goes as far as Rockway (1 hour from Durango).
We spent a night at the Doubletree Hotel, Durango. We were accommodated in a large room with a balcony overlooking the Animas River at the rear of the property. This was a very clean and comfortable hotel. The town retains its Wild West look, with many beautifully restored buildings, and we found it has a good range of restaurants.
Day 13
Great Rails took us on a coach from Durango to Flagstaff. We went via Cortez, Bluff (for a rest stop) and to Gooseneck Canyon which is an undiscovered treasure. Just off Highway 95, you can see from a single vantage point the river bend 4 times in a deep canyon below you. We then went into Monument Valley and stopped at Gouldings Trading Post/Lodge for lunch. We arrived at Flagstaff in the late afternoon for a two night stop at the Little America Hotel which offered a large room, comfortable and clean. Flagstaff has a small downtown area but limited attractions.
Day 14
Great Rails provided a coach to head along the legendary Route 66 to the town of Williams to join the Grand Canyon Railway to the Grand Canyon to the South Rim and main viewpoint of the Canyon. Many in the group took up the option of taking a flight over the Canyon.
Day 15
Great Rails provided a coach tour starting at Walnut Canyon. This is well worth a visit. The tour then continued onto to Sedona through Oak Creek Canyon which was very picturesque with towering cliffs on both sides of the road. We reached Sedona for lunch. Sedona is a real curio, with pavements and buildings matching the red rocks that surround the town giving great photo opportunities but the town is small with large numbers of souvenir shops. The final part of the tour took us to the mountain town of Jerome. Again there are numerous souvenir shops but also quirky buildings and unusual art shops and exhibitions. The tour ended back Flagstaff to join the Southwest Chief for the overnight journey to Los Angeles.
Day 16
The Southwest Chief arrived in Los Angeles around 8:30 a.m. This trip was at night so I cannot comment on the scenery although the cityscapes of San Bernardino and Los Angeles just before arrival are interesting. Great Rails arranged a tour on arrival to Hollywood, with free time to see the footprints of the stars at Mann's Chinese Theatre and the stars on Hollywood Boulevard. The tour took in other Los Angeles sights such as Sunset Boulevard and Rodeo Drive. We found the guide a little 'over the top' with her show-biz anecdotes but informative. We then travelled to Long Beach for one night on board the RMS Queen Mary. Great Rails provided a tour of the ship to discover more about its fascinating history as a luxurious ocean liner and World War II troop ship. We found the ship to be a fascinating place to stay.
Day 17
We joined Amtrak's Coast Starlight for a daytime journey from Los Angeles to San Francisco. This was a great scenic journey with first a climb into the hills and then through the vast agricultural area of the Simi Valley and by the time we had lunch there were superb Pacific Ocean views as the train hugged the coast north of Santa Barbara. As the train turned inland there were more mountain views through the wine county of San Luis Obispo.
Day 18
Great Rails provided a Sightseeing tour of San Francisco that took in the downtown area, Chinatown, Twin Peaks, Golden Gate Park, the catholic Cathedral and Fisherman's Wharf. After lunch we were taken to Alcatraz. This was a good tour and gave us an excellent orientation to the city.
We stayed at the Holiday Inn Golden Gateway on Van Ness which is close to the cable car terminus. Our room was one of the smaller rooms we had experienced on our trip, but it was clean and comfortable.
****
NEW YORK
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We had 3 nights in New York. Our base for three nights was the Holiday Inn Midtown, within walking distance of Central Park, Broadway and Times Square.
We took in the 'Lion King' at the Minskoff Theatre on Broadway which was superb with really good seats with a great view and a free programme! We went up the Empire State Building, which gave us a great view of the City - the audio show prior to the ascent which costs extra is a bit clich d but good fun. We took a Gray Line 'Hop On - Hop Off' open top Uptown bus tour which took us around stops including Central Park, Lincoln Centre, Theatre district, Rockefeller Plaza, Radio City, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Fifth Avenue, American Museum of Natural History, Cathedral of St. John the Divine, Apollo Theatre and Harlem neighbourhoods, Metropolitan Museum of Art & the Guggenheim. This tour's length is approximately 2 hours long & operates from 8:30am to 5:00pm. The tour departs every 30 minutes April through December & every 45 minutes January through March. The tour was interesting but unfortunately suffered from a poor commentary which only gave us limited information.
We breakfasted in a variety of Diners near our hotel - the best of which was 'Route 66' (9th Avenue near 57th) and ate in several different restaurants - all were good.
We did the usual tourist things of visiting Macy's and walking through Times Square and Central Park, but didn't enjoy a trip on the Subway - up to the Yankees stadium (from Grand Central - well worth a visit even if you don't catch a train or a subway) it was fine but after then we felt vulnerable and were glad to get off.
HOLIDAY INN, MIDTOWN, NEW YORK
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We had 3 nights in New York at the Holiday Inn Midtown.
We thought this was a hotel in big need of refurbishment - the decor was dark (greens, deep reds and browns) and faded and tired looking. Our room was clean and was adequately serviced. The bathroom was 'old fashioned' with extensive use of plastics in the bathroom and with an erratic shower but both queen sized beds were comfortable and gave us a good nights sleep. TV reception was poor and we could clearly hear the family next door. There was no in-room safe. We didn't eat in the hotel and the Pool was closed for the season. The concierge was helpful but on arrival it took the staff over an hour to deliver our luggage to the room.
WASHINGTON
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009.
On our free time we arranged a Walking Tour of Georgetown offered by Washington Walks that lasted 2 hours and traversed a large number of streets in the historic residential district. The meeting point was Pennsylvania Avenue and 28th Street and there were 13 people on the tour lead by the guide, David. He was very knowledgeable and the tour was undertaken at a relaxed pace. We saw a huge range of houses including houses from the revolutionary period and the house lived in by John and Jackie Kennedy before they became President and First lady. Definitely a recommended tour.
We also undertook a nightime tour of the City offered by GrayLines. Stops were made at at the Jefferson Memorial, Lincoln Memorial, Vietnam Memorial, Korean Memorial, and FDR Memorial. We saw national monuments and federal buildings flooded in lights, from the illuminated dome of the US Capitol to the The Kennedy Center, Library of Congress, Supreme Court, House and Senate Office Buildings, Federal Triangle, Pennsylvania Avenue, The White House, Capitol Reflecting Pool, Marine Corps (Iwo Jima) Memorial, and the World War II Memorial. This was a good tour that took nearly 4 hours with an informative and lively guide. Recommended
We went on a tour of the Capitol, starting in the Capitol Visitor Center. We pre-booked our time but there seemed little difficulty in getting on a tour by just 'turning-up'. The Capitol is home to the U.S. Congress and its two legislative bodies, the U.S. House of Representatives and the U.S. Senate. Guided tours of the Capitol begin at the Orientation Theaters on the lower level of the Capitol Visitor Center. "Out of Many, One," a 13-minute film, illustrates how the USA established a new form of government, highlights the vital role that Congress plays in the daily lives of Americans, and introduces you to the building that houses the U.S. Congress. The areas accessible to visitors on the first floor include the Hall of Columns, the Brumidi Corridors, the restored Old Supreme Court Chamber, and the Crypt beneath the Rotunda, where historical exhibits are presented. The second floor holds, under the dome, the Rotunda, a circular ceremonial space that also serves as a gallery of paintings and sculpture depicting significant people and events in the nation's history. The Rotunda is 96 feet in diameter and rises 180 feet 3 inches to the canopy. The visitor galleries to see the proceedings of the House and the Senate when Congress is in session are only available by tickets from Senators or Representatives. Our Tour lasted one hour and was lead by a guide with a superb delivery and grasp of facts. Well worth a visit - and its free!
We enjoyed a meal at the Capitol City Brewery; lively atmosphere and reasonable prices for good food. We also ate at the Cafe Center in Union Station. Very reasonable for a hot snack.
Our Tour Manager told us, for safety reasons, to avoid the area NE of Union Station and the Navy Yard area - we did visit the Navy Yard area on the Circulator Bus (Good value for $1 flat rate fare) and it did not seem to be a problem.
PHOENIX PARK HOTEL, WASHINGTON DC
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009.
We spent two nights at the Phoenix Park Hotel, an Irish themed hotel. This is situated 10 minutes from Capitol Hill and 5 minutes from Union Station. Our room was beautifully decorated with matching wallpaper and curtains and a large and comfortable double bed. The bathroom was on the small side but was adequate. There was a large flat screen TV. The room was well serviced and very clean. The air conditioning was a bit of a mystery! We were surprised to see in our key envelope a guide to tipping which we thought was unnecessary. We heard some noise from the Bar on the ground floor during the early hours from a group celebrating a college reunion. We ate breakfast in the hotel on one morning which was good but a little pricey, it was well presented and served and freshly cooked. Though advertised, there was no turn-down service or in-room safe.
CAPITOL LIMITED
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009.
We travelled overnight from Washington to Chicago. The Capitol Limited runs daily between Washington, DC and Chicago, following the historic B&O line through the Potomac Valley, past historic Harpers Ferry and the Allegheny Mountains into Pittsburgh, crossing into Ohio heading north to Cleveland, and then across Ohio and Indiana into the centre of Chicago. We had upgraded to a sleeper with an integral Shower/WC. The room (about 9 feet by 6 feet) is equipped with a bench seat for day use and a armchair. Also a wash hand basin with razor point and individual heating control and bottled water. Ample towels and toiletries are provided. The steward puts up and takes down the bunk beds. Coffee, ice, water and orange juice are available free of charge. Dinner and Breakfast is included and taken in the Dining Car. Reservations for dinner are strictly observed by the Dining Car staff and you are seated at the next available table and so the choice of dining companions is 'pot-luck'. Dinner serving started at 1730 and breakfast at 0530. Dinner was a salad followed by a choice of chicken, beef, pasta or fish followed by a sweet. Alcoholic drinks could be bought in addition. Breakfast choices included a continental breakfast or a Pancake choice or an American cooked breakfast. Much of the early part of the journey before night fell was very interesting with pleasant scenery and a view of small towns. We found sleeping on the train difficult and constantly interrupted by the motion of the train cornering and the whistle as it approached level crossings. We were grateful to have private facilities and to not have to use the communal facilities on the lower level of the carriage. Coming down from the upper bunk in the middle of the night was interesting! Use of the top bunk requires physical effort and can feel claustrophobic - the bunks themselves are not uncomfortable, but the air conditioning can be chilling. A word of caution, most of our party mentioned that they suffered from a mild 'motion sensation' for much of the day following the journey.
CHICAGO
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We visited the Willis Tower Skydeck . At 1,353 feet (412 meters), the Skydeck is the highest observatory in Chicago. The view is amazing! You can see 40 - 50 miles (65 - 80 kilometers) on a clear day. Imagine seeing Michigan, Indiana, Illinois and Wisconsin, just by walking around the Skydeck. And there's no finer view of Chicago architecture. We were brave enough to go out on the new observation decks that give a 360 degree view outside the building. Well worth the entrance fee with very little queuing. We visited the Shedd Aquarium. We took out a fully inclusive package for $21. This entitled us to visit all attractions. The first was a 15 minute extract from the BBCs 'Blue Planet' series which we had seen, but after that we went to the marine show (due to be upgraded 3 days after our visit) featuring seals and beluga whales which was very good. The aquarium is extensive featuring very many fish we had not seen before in sympathetic settings and good interpretative material. We thought this was well worth the entrance fee. We travelled to the aquarium from the city centre by bus - $2.25 each way, but free for senior citizens! We ate dinner at JP Clarkes (2 blocks south of the Doubletree) - very good food and super service - well worth a visit. We breakfasted at the West End Cafe across the street from the Doubletree Magnificent Mile hotel - lively atmosphere, quick and attentive service, extensive choice and plentiful helpings - very good and highly recommended.
CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR (Chicago to Denver)
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We boarded the California Zephyr for an overnight journey, across the cornfields and plains of Iowa and Nebraska to Denver. The Zephyr runs daily between Chicago and San Francisco. Much of the early part of the journey before night fell was through extensive plains that can be a little boring though just before nightfall we crossed the Mississippi River. We had upgraded to a sleeper with an integral Shower/WC. The room (about 9 feet by 6 feet) is equipped with a bench seat for day use and a armchair. Also a wash hand basin with razor point and individual heating control and bottled water. Ample towels and toiletries are provided. The steward puts up and takes down the bunk beds. Coffee, ice, water and orange juice are available free of charge. Dinner and Breakfast is included and taken in the Dining Car. Reservations for dinner are strictly observed by the Dining Car staff and you are seated at the next available table and so the choice of dining companions is 'pot-luck'. Dinner serving started at 1730 and breakfast at 0600. Dinner was a salad followed by a choice of chicken, beef, pasta or fish followed by a sweet. Alcoholic drinks could be bought in addition. Breakfast choices included a continental breakfast or a Pancake choice or an American cooked breakfast. We found sleeping on the train difficult and constantly interrupted by the motion of the train cornering and the whistle as it approached level crossings. We were grateful to have private facilities and to not have to use the communal facilities on the lower level of the carriage. Coming down from the upper bunk in the middle of the night was interesting! Use of the top bunk requires physical effort and can feel claustrophobic - the bunks themselves are not uncomfortable, but the air conditioning can be chilling. A word of caution, most of our party mentioned that they suffered from a mild 'motion sensation' for much of the day following the journey. Surprisingly, we arrived 25 minutes early in Denver.
DOUBLETREE Magnificent Mile, Chicago
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We stayed at the Doubletree Hotel Chicago Magnificent Mile between the Magnificent Mile and Navy Pier for one night. We were impressed that rooms had been prepared for occupation at 1145 on our arrival and we were presented with cookies on arrival and from our 20th Floor room we had a magnificent view although we could hear traffic noise from below. The room was large and comfortable and we slept well. The hospitality tray was limited. The hotel was very clean with modern decor and a large and busy foyer area. The staff in the gift shop were very friendly and helpful.
DENVER
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009.
This is a beautiful city with extensive mountain views. The City Centre is lively, clean and compact with good shopping and many restaurants and bars. We used the free shuttle service up and down the 16th street Mall to go shopping and to go to Dinner and took a bus to go out of the City Centre to the Cherry Creek Shopping Mall which was very stylish though the shopping range was a bit limited. We dined in Katie Mullens Irish Pub (16th street), crowded and very lively and noisy but a superb steak served speedily and attentively with free soft drink refills. On our second night we dined at Marlowes (16th street) - lively and crowded but with good food at a reasonable price and excellent service.
WARWICK HOTEL, DENVER
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009.
We stayed in Denver for 2 nights at the Warwick Hotel. The hotel is about a mile from the main mile-long promenade lined with caf s and shops (16th street) but the staff tried very hard to make us feel welcome. This was a good hotel with large comfortable rooms, including a walk-in closet. Very smart and contemporary decor, everywhere was clean with very positive and friendly staff. A complimentary car service is available to guests.
We breakfasted in the hotel - this was a buffet, that was ample but not extensive (scrambled eggs were unusual - decorated with peppers!) and 'special' orders were met with some unwillingness ('I think the Chef is otherwise engaged but I will ask').
ESTES PARK
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Great Rails provided an all day excursion to Big Thompson Canyon and Estes Park (Rocky Mountain National Park). Unfortunately due to adverse weather in the previous week we were not able to go to Big Thompson Canyon, but the tour of Estes Park was excellent. Located 71 miles (114 km) northwest of Denver, Rocky Mountain National Park features 400 square miles (1,036 sq km) of scenic beauty, including Trail Ridge Road, the highest continuous highway in the world crossing the Continental Divide at over two miles above sea level. The park has two information centres, hundreds of miles of hiking trails, tranquil lakes, waterfalls, wildlife and horseback riding. A visit to Estes Park is well worth it - we saw Deer, Elk and Coyote and magnificent mountains. The afternoon rest stop was in the town of Estes Park - plentiful souvenir shops.
CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR (Denver to Grand Junction)
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We travelled on the California Zephyr between Denver and Grand Junction. This route is regarded as one of the USA's most scenic rail journeys along the route of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. The journey takes you up into the Rocky Mountains, past dramatic peaks and deep ravines . The route follows the Colorado river through steep canyons and onto the plains passing Fraser, Granby and Glenwood Springs. The train contains an observation car for the all round view. To get the best view in an 'ordinary' carriage you need to move seats constantly; my advice is right hand for the first stage from Denver to the top of the mountains and between Granby and Glenwood Springs and the left hand side down the canyon to Granby and between Glenwood Springs and Grand Junction. This is a trip - all in daylight - you should not miss containing some stunning vistas.
HAMPTON INN, GRAND JUNCTION
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. In Grand Junction we stayed at the Hampton Inn. Both the hotel and the town were a pleasant surprise. The Hampton Inn is located on historic Main Street, spotlessly clean, the room was large with a large bathroom and both were well appointed, with free coffee and other hot drinks available all 24 hours in reception as well as free internet. Though the outdoor pool was closed we were directed to use the indoor pool at the next door hotel which was excellent. Breakfast was plentiful (Yoghurt, Juices, Fruit, Cereal, Pancakes, Fried items) though the use of plastic plates and cutlery can be off-putting. Staff were very helpful and obliging. One slight downside is that because the hotel is near the railway, throughout the night train whistles were audible.
GRAND JUNCTION
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Grand Junction consists of one main street with at least a dozen restaurants; we chose the Il Italino Restaurant which was very good, though a bit pricey. Service was very attentive and efficient. I ate Bison which was excellent. The main street also includes 2 theatres, art galleries, clothing boutiques, antique shops and a variety of restaurants and has retained the quaint charm of yesteryear, thanks to its Victorian-era architecture. The streets are filled with almost 100 sculptures that are well worth a visit.
SILVERTON
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Great Rails took us on a coach through the San Juan Mountains to Silverton. The route up from Ouray to Silverton contains several hairpin bends and spectacular scenery including interesting mining works. The San Juan range forms the southern part of Colorado's Rocky Mountains and is thought by some to have the best, most varied scenery of all. Spanning the continental divide, it has numerous jagged volcanic summits, 13 of which rise to over 14,000 feet, many lakes, waterfalls and streams including the source of the Rio Grande, several historic towns and countless relics from the gold and silver mining era of the nineteenth century. Most of the central San Juan Mountains are reachable only on foot or jeep trails - an area 40 miles square with no paved roads that includes about 80 miles of the continental divide. Silverton is a tiny town nestled precariously between two rugged San Juan Mountain passes, Red Mountain and Molas. Silverton always survives harsh winters and a wavering economy to remain an interesting town. Most of the downtown in a designated National Historic District and if you are into seeing a town almost preserved as an old fashioned western town, then Silverton is a great example, with the main street composed of dirt roads, and preserved shop fronts with boardwalks. One warning - many establishments close from October to May.
DURANGO AND SILVERTON NARROW GAUGE RAILWAY
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Silverton is the northern terminus of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railway, one of only two remaining stretches of a once extensive system that criss-crossed the southern Rockies. The railway follows the deep, forested Animas Gorge for 45 miles through several tunnels, over high wooden bridges and across the face of steep slopes, and is usually open from May to October. The locomotives used to pull today's train remain 100% coal-fired, steam-operated. The locomotives are 1923-25 vintage and are maintained in original condition. The coaches each feature bathroom facilities and are heated during the winter months for passenger comfort. Open gondola cars provide a panoramic view of the mountains. This is a superb ride for stunning and rugged scenery and especially for anyone interested in vintage steam trains. There is a refreshment coach on the train with a wide range of cold drinks and snacks. If you journey up from Durango to Silverton your picture is taken and can be purchased on the return leg. A guide book or a DVD costs $10. If you are restricted to sitting on one side of the train, my advice is to sit on the left side from Silverton, although sitting on the right side gives you a good view up the mountains. The clincher in the choice of side is the Gorge section after about 1 and a half hours from Silverton that is quite spectacular. In the case of poor winter weather the train often only goes as far as Rockway (1 hour from Durango).
DOUBLETREE HOTEL, DURANGO
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We spent a night at the Doubletree Hotel, Durango. We were accommodated in a large room with a balcony overlooking the Animas River at the rear of the property. The room was well appointed with 2 sinks, two large double beds and lots of toiletries (including mouthwash) in the Bathroom. We spent a comfortable night, a bonus being the excellent salt water swimming pool and the hot plunge pool. This was a very clean and comfortable hotel. The hotel is two blocks from Main Street and the Silverton Railroad Station.
DURANGO
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. The town retains its Wild West look, with many beautifully restored buildings, and we found it has a good range of restaurants. We chose Randys which despite its name was a pleasant place for dinner - surprisingly the presentation of the meal was almost 'nouvelle cuisine' without oversized portions. Pricewise, we did think it was a bit pricey.
MONUMENT VALLEY
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Great Rails took us on a coach from Durango to Flagstaff. We went via Cortez, Bluff (for a rest stop) and to Gooseneck Canyon which is an undiscovered treasure. Just off Highway 95, you can see from a single vantage point the river bend 4 times in a deep canyon below you. We then went into Monument Valley and stopped at Gouldings Trading Post/Lodge for lunch.
LITTLE AMERICA HOTEL, FLAGSTAFF
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We had a two night stop at the Little America Hotel set amid 500 acres of private, lush pine forest. Our room was the largest we experienced on this trip, with a seating area and a small dining table with a chandelier. There were two large queen sized beds and two sinks (one outside the bathroom). The hotel was clean, but our room was a 5 minute walk by internal corridor to Reception. The Pool was closed for refurbishment and one of the 3 restaurants was closed and had been for over a year. There was free internet in Reception. There was a special welcome to the group from the hotel management with free cookies and generally staff were helpful. The gift shop was large with a wide range of gifts and souvenirs.
FLAGSTAFF
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We breakfasted in Dennys (1 block from the Little America Hotel). The hotel organised a taxi for us from All Star Taxis who charged $13 to take us to the Flagstaff Mall and the same from the Mall to Downtown. From Downtown we rode on 2 local buses - $1 for a single ride. Flagstaff has a historic area but this is very small. We dined in an Italian restaurant - Pesto which was good - in the centre of Flagstaff with considerate and helpful service.
WALNUT CANYON
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Great Rails provided a tour starting at the 600ft (183m) deep Walnut Canyon. Many of the dwellings were built around a U-shaped meander in Walnut Canyon, where the creek circles around 3 sides of a high rocky plateau, almost creating an 'island'. After passing through the visitor centre there was a choice of two walks, a 20 minute amble along the rim trail or the 1 hour 'Island' trail that takes you down into the Canyon to see the cave dwellings but requires stamina to get back to the top of the canyon up 300 steps. This can be difficult for those not used to activity at altitude. This trail is closed early (4 pm), so the park rangers can check that no-one is attempting to stay overnight. This is well worth a visit.
SEDONA
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Great Rails provided a tour to Sedona through Oak Creek Canyon which was very picturesque with towering cliffs on both sides of the road. We reached Sedona for lunch. Located in Arizona's high desert under the towering south-western rim of the vast Colorado Plateau, the city of Sedona is blessed with four mild seasons marked by abundant sunshine and clean air. Historically, it was a rural ranching community located far off the beaten path, but its unsurpassed natural beauty became nationally known through the motion picture industry. Today, commercials and television shows still are filmed in the unsettled areas surrounding this city, which annually attracts more than 4 million tourists from around the world. Recommended lunch venues were Oxaya, Cowboy Club and Canyon Place. Another venue with a small patio but a great view was Pink Palace Patio. Sedona is a real curio, with pavements and buildings matching the red rocks that surround the town giving great photo opportunities but the town is small with large numbers of souvenir shops.
JEROME
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. Great Rails provided a tour to the mountain town of Jerome. Jerome is a tourist destination, with many abandoned and refurbished buildings from its boom town days. Jerome has a large mining museum, presenting the town history, labour-management disputes, geological structure models, mineral samples, and equipment used in both underground and open-pit mining. The National Historic Landmark designation has assured architectural preservation in this town, a mile high on the side of Mingus Mountain. There are numerous souvenir shops but also quirky buildings and unusual art shops and exhibitions.
SOUTHWEST CHIEF (Flagstaff to Los Angeles)
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We boarded the Southwest Chief for an overnight journey across the Mojave Desert overnight, crossing into the Pacific time zone, before arriving Los Angeles around 8:30 a.m. This trip was at night so I cannot comment on the scenery although the cityscapes of San Bernardino and Los Angeles just before arrival are interesting. We had upgraded to a sleeper with an integral Shower/WC. The room (about 9 feet by 6 feet) is equipped with a bench seat for day use and a armchair. Also a wash hand basin with razor point and individual heating control and bottled water. Ample towels and toiletries are provided. The steward puts up and takes down the bunk beds. Coffee, ice, water and orange juice are available free of charge. Breakfast was included and taken in the Dining Car. Breakfast choices included a continental breakfast or a Pancake choice or an American cooked breakfast. We found sleeping on the train difficult and constantly interrupted by the motion of the train cornering and the whistle as it approached level crossings. We were grateful to have private facilities and to not have to use the communal facilities on the lower level of the carriage. Coming down from the upper bunk in the middle of the night was interesting! Use of the top bunk requires physical effort and can feel claustrophobic - the bunks themselves are not uncomfortable, but the air conditioning can be chilling. A word of caution, most of our party mentioned that they suffered from a mild 'motion sensation' for much of the day following the journey.
QUEEN MARY HOTEL, LONG BEACH
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We had one night on board the RMS Queen Mary. Great Rails provided a tour of the ship to discover more about its fascinating history as a luxurious ocean liner and World War II troop ship. We found the ship to be a fascinating place to stay and explore. Our room on A deck, was charming, furnished with Art Deco-era decor and ocean-themed art. Our porthole gave a view out to sea. There were two comfortable single beds and ample storage places, a small but adequate bathroom (with reminders of the ship's oceangoing days, such as faucets labelled for salt water (now dry)), a limited hospitality tray and an empty fridge. Unfortunately the bathroom had not been properly serviced and there were very noticeable hairs on the bathroom floor and something indescribable stuck on the wall. On arrival our luggage took over an hour to arrive in our room. At 0330 we could very clearly hear the telephone conversation of the person in the room next door, proving that sound does transmit through steel very easily! Despite these issues, we found this to be a charming venue for a single nights stay.
We dined in the Promenade Cafe twice. We had Dinner and then Breakfast. At Dinner service for a large group of 13 was slow, though when delivered the food was good, and at breakfast for 2 of us the service was again slow though again the food was good when it arrived. We bought a take out lunch in the Hollywood Deli for the next day. Staff there (perhaps because they were not busy) were very considerate, positive and helpful (we found the fridge in our room very convenient to store the food overnight) and we found the food to be delicious and very good value when we ate it the next day.
COAST STARLIGHT (Los Angeles to San Francisco)
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We joined Amtrak's Coast Starlight for a daytime journey from Los Angeles to San Francisco. This was a scenic journey with first a climb into the hills and then through the vast agricultural area of the Simi Valley and by the time we had lunch (good value) there were superb Pacific Ocean views as the train hugged the coast north of Santa Barbara. As the train turned inland there were more mountain views through the wine county of San Luis Obispo. Not being a Sleeper passenger we couldn't access the film show in the Parlour Car and would have been charged $10 to sample four regional wines, paired with four cheeses. However, the attendant in our coach was extremely helpful and provided pillows and adjusted the temperature as requested. We arrived in San Francisco after a journey of over 11 hours exactly on time.
HOLIDAY INN GOLDEN GATEWAY, SAN FRANCISCO
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We stayed at the Holiday Inn Golden Gateway on Van Ness which is close to the cable car terminus. Our room was one of the smaller rooms we had experienced on our trip, but it was clean and comfortable. We slept well in the large double bed. It was not well serviced on one of the days of our stay with glasses and cups left uncleaned. Our room overlooked the 6th floor swimming pool which gets sun in the morning. We breakfasted in the hotel on one day - we had the continental buffet for $14.25 which was reasonable value though the range was restricted.
SAN FRANCISCO
We travelled across the USA on a tour organised by Great Rail Journeys of York between the 7th and 27th October 2009. We dined with others of our group at Ti Piaceria Italian restaurant on Polk Street one night. We were disappointed, though the service was good, we felt the meal was overpriced. We also dined at Chef Hungs off Grant Avenue in Chinatown. This was an experience - clearly catering for local residents, service was perfunctory, decor was basic but portions were huge, food was good and excellent value.
We also breakfasted in the New Village Cafe on Polk Street/Pine Street which was cheap and very cheerful with good food, a friendly welcome for regulars and pictures of customers plastering the walls and postcards from all over the world.
We took a Gray Line motorized Cable Car tour which started at Pier 43 and lasted 2 hours. This was a superb tour with an excellent guide/driver who was entertaining, amusing and informative. The tour took in the harbour area, Chrissy Fields, the Palace of Arts, the Presidio, the Golden Gate Bridge, Japan Town, Chinatown as well as many other streets. This tour was excellent value.
Our Tips for San Francisco - buy a 3 day transport pass at $18 - gets you unlimited rides on the trams and cable cars (the Powell/Hyde line is THE one!). Dont miss the seals adjacent to Pier 39 and the catholic cathedral is well worth a visit.

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Railbrid's Comment

Written on: 16/11/2009

I found this review very helpful because...very comprehensive..good to have info on the hotels, restaurants, etc. We're considering this tour so this review was a huge help. Well Done!

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Guest's Comment

Written on: 24/07/2011

a good grounding on what to expect

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Rotarybob's Comment

Written on: 22/05/2010

I've also booked this holiday, taking place in September, and found this very comprehensive review very helpful and am looking forward even more than before to taking part in this very special holiday.
<br/>I only hope that Great Rail Journeys have sorted out the New York hotel. It doesn't sound very worthy of such a special trip.

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Rupertsfriend's Comment

Written on: 25/03/2010

I found this review very helpful because...we booked 6 months ago but have yet to get much info other than the original brochure from Great Rail Journeys themselves! This review is comprehensive and has answerred a lot of questions, we are now once again looking forward to it many thanks

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