Joann Fletcher,Andrew Humphreys, Lonely Planet: Egypt (Country Guide)

Joann Fletcher,Andrew Humphreys, Lonely Planet: Egypt: As a seasoned visitor to Luxor, it is evident that some entries need updating. This was noticed last year and, having just returned from there yesterday, is now more so.

Food

Standards have been improving yearly, but quality and choice have seen big improvements in the past two years that are not reflected in the guide. Other than beef (which is still ordinary in most forms in which it is served) taste and diversity are now extremely good. Comparisons with Western equivalents do not take account of the quality and freshness of ingredients (particularly vegetables of all kind) which taste as though they are plucked straight from the earth or farmland and on to your plate. In general these ingredients put anything labelled as organic in this country to shame. Such quality could be seen in the range of food in all outlets of the Winter Palace (old and new), as well as Hotel du Nil and Hotel Tutankamoun on the West Bank; and particularly the Dawar El Omda restaurent close to the Mercure Inn (which was a revelation after mediocre food there two years ago - as long as you avoid the occasional buffet nights for large tourist groups). Others establishments too numerous to mention all showed improvement not reflected by the Lonely Planet wording.

Al Moudirah Hotel

We visited this two years ago when it was still empty of guests (and I mean empty). It was a third full this time which was pleasing to see. An unusual place, and the Lonely Planet entries for the rooms themselves are fully justified - they are palatial. However, readers would do well to realise that it is miles from anywhere, has food that is good but no better than elsewhere now, and could quickly become claustrophobic for those staying more than a couple of days. The hotel is a brave and interesting venture, but a location that gives options to the guest is crucial and in this respect it will always be limited.