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★★★★★

“Here with report as promised in my review of the Ritz...”

written by ssearle1 on 21/07/2005

Good Points
1. The best hotel in Luxor
2. Wonderful gardens and leisure amenities
3. Friendly staff including animation team
4. Very reasonable bar and meal prices
5. Excellent location out of town
6. Truely excellent food - menu varied daily

Bad Points
1. Service generally a little slow - at all levels
2. Nothing else

General Comments
Here with report as promised in my review of the Ritz in Sharm el Sheikh. We stayed at the Sofitel Karnak (rated 5 star locally but 4 star by most European tour operators) from 01 - 15 June this year and each day we congratulated ourselves for making such a good choice. Of course there were a couple of minor niggles, firstly, after arriving and completing the usual formalities we were shown to our room - or not as the case may be - we were simply taken half way, pointed in the direction of one of the outbuildings and told our room was on the top floor. This was the first time I have never been personally escorted to a hotel room. After showering we went for the evening meal which was being served in the Nile restaurant - this is normally the smaller la carte restaurant but when the hotel is approximately one third full they use this instead of the Opet buffet restaurant which is much larger. Again we were just pointed in the general direction of this and we had to return to reception for confirmation of location. The Nile restaurant is in a lovely location alongside the Nile with a small outside terrace - but it wasn't really suited to a buffet style meal arrangement as the room was too narrow for this type of operation and people were constantly brushing past perimeter tables.



However, four days later, due to either complaints or an increase in the number of guests, both breakfast and evening meals were reassigned to the Opet restaurant. This is a large restaurant nicely arranged and decorated (although I felt the wall murals a little OTT) - the main buffets were arranged around a large replica of a Pharonic royal barge. The food throughout our stay was exemplary - always fresh, hot where necessary and attractively presented. The chefs were continually re-arranging the buffets to ensure good presentation. Each day of the week there is a different theme ranging from Oriental through to Tex Mex and Italian etc. In addition each evening there were several types of salad and fresh pasta dishes cooked on an as requested basis. I have to say that in all the places I have stayed on half board, the Sofitel Karnak stood head and shoulders above them. The desserts especially were varied; it was obvious someone had gone to great lengths to ensure they looked as well as tasting good.



Breakfast was served from 0530 until 1030 - it was served this early to enable people who were going on day excursions to take advantage of the cooler part of the mornings. Those on half board were also entitled to a limited quantity of free drinks with their meal - this was not without some peculiarities, for instance you could have a bottle of Stella beer but Sakhara beer was charged at normal bar prices, similarly you could have a can of Cola or Sprite but not Diet Cola which again you had to pay for in full. I don't know what the limit on free drinks with your meal is but we usually had a large bottle of water and either a beer or soft drink each, which in the circumstance seemed reasonable.



If I have slight irritation it was with the majority of staff throughout the hotel - and that was the frequent slow service even when not busy - you would ask for something, not receive it and ask someone else, only to give up and try and find it yourself. I don't have a problem with this if they are genuinely busy and I am only too happy to help out where necessary but you just never knew if you were going to get what you asked for. Don't get me wrong they were polite, smiling and very welcoming but after experiencing the type of prompt and efficient service you usually get in the hotels in Sharm el Sheikh, the reverse here came as a surprise here - they definitely need a more efficient restaurant manager.



However, that's almost all the niggles out of the way - food as I mentioned is excellent, the rooms are good, not luxurious and a bit on the small side - but no problem if it's just the two of you, however I imagine it would be a bit cramped if you needed a third bed. The bathroom again was good, clean and with a power shower over the bath. Word of warning here though especially for those with young children. The shower does not have a temperature regulator - you would normally expect this to simply result in a sudden stream of cold water, but here the opposite applies, almost without warning the shower temperature can go from tepid to scalding - this happened on a daily basis - so if you are showering down young children, DON'T - give them a bath instead.





The hotel gardens are really lovely and extremely well looked after - the site is fully mature with towering palm trees springing up from green lawns, There are innumerable flowering shrubs and flowers - it really is a picture at every turn. An area that is especially attractive is the gardens to the rear of the fitness suite and down the driveway to the exit gates. If you have young children - do take a walk to the bottom of the drive, just before the exit there is a small menagerie looked after by a young man. It contains a young camel, a couple of donkeys, sheep, rabbits, ducks, doves and two baby crocodiles in a pond - when I asked him what he fed the crocodiles on he pointed to a small shoal of little fish cowering at the far end of the pool - I don't think they slept at night! Don't forget to give the lad a tip - he's saving up to put some glass windows in his parent's house - at least that was my interpretation!



The main pool with swim-up bar is excellent, there are plenty of comfortable sun beds with mattresses and parasols, there is a smaller adjoining children's pool. During the morning and again in the afternoon there is water aerobics and water polo. At the towel station it is

possible to borrow or hire a multitude of games or sports equipment - there is also a book exchange library. A little further away on the lawns going down towards the Nile there are more sun beds, from these you have a great view over the Nile towards the West Bank and the Valley of the Kings et al. Close by there is a further children's pool with small waterside and magic mushroom water fountain. If there is one thing that spoils the view it's the massive electricity pylons slightly upstream with cables that span right across the Nile - these are a bit of an eyesore and you tend to concentrate your eyes in the other direction.



Directly above the Nile restaurant is the Sundowners Bar - this is open from about 4pm until midnight serving drinks and shisha pipes - this as the name suggests is a great place early evening to watch the sun set with a drink or two. Do be aware though that due to its close proximity to the Nile there are a few mosquitoes around. That said the hotel does a really good job of keeping them under control - they have plenty of electric fluorescent flying insect traps around and each evening they mist around the grounds and during the day and wash down all hard surfaces (walkways) with mosquito repellent. Don't be put off by the thought of hordes of mosquitoes they are well behaved, or dead.



On the sporting front there are modern free squash courts, volley ball courts, tennis courts, Jacuzzi and sauna



Drinks etc - the bedroom minibar is very reasonably priced with drinks being the same as you would pay at one of the bars. Inside the main hotel building the main bar is Carter's Bar - this is where the main evening entertainment is held and in actual fact isn't too bad - experienced far worse in Cypriot hotels. They do try to vary it a bit with either a duo or group of four providing both Arabic and European music and songs. This is interspersed throughout the week with Karaoke evenings or Limbo dancing or Casino nights - the animation team do very well and provide just the right level of enthusiasm for their audience. There is also the Moorish caf situated off the lobby which serves all types of drinks from mid-morning until late into the evening. Prices for drinks are I think good for Egypt and this class of hotel - certainly cheaper than at home. A 500ml bottle of Stella was E£18 and Sakhara was E£20. Alcoholic cocktails were all priced at E£35 and from comments I heard seemed to be good and have a fair quantity of alcohol in them. Diet Cola, Sprite and similar were I think, E£9 each for a 330ml can. The exchange rate whilst we were there was E£10.66 to £1 sterling.



Likewise if you wanted to eat during the day - meals could be ordered from the Palmerie Bar (pool bar) these were very good value - for example pizza with salad and French fries was approx E£34 and an enormous beef burger with salad and French fries was E£32.00. The menu was quite extensive ranging the sandwiches to steak and chicken fillets - none of it too expensive.



Transport into and out of Luxor is a commendable 11 times per day ranging from approx 0700 in the morning through to the last minibus back from Luxor around 1830 in the evening. The courtesy motor launches are a great way to get a free mini-cruise - many guests simply stayed on when it got to Luxor and made the direct return trip. From what I can re-call the minibuses operate throughout the day and the motor launches operate in the afternoons. Typical journey times are 35 minutes to Luxor by motor boat (against the flow) and slightly less coming back). The minibuses only take 10 minutes either way. They are quite willing to set you down at any point i.e. Karnak Temple or Luxor Temple. Return pick-ups are from outside the Sofitel Winter Palace hotel.



So just how good is the Sofitel Karnak compared with its main competitors in Luxor - well quite simply none of the other compare and I even include the Old Winter Palace, Sonesta St George, Movenpick on crocodile island, Sheraton and Hilton. How can I be sure - because I paid a visit to all of them. OK one or two of them have a couple of redeeming factors for instance:



Old Winter Palace Hotel - yes it's got some history but inside it's somewhat dated (OK that what they call ambiance) and the staff look like they belong to the Adams family - it may be OK for a holiday in which you never wanted to see another living person but that's it. We visited on a couple of evenings and on each occasion felt that we were involved in a murder mystery evening with us two as the sole survivors - so far! Redeeming features - drinks fairly reasonably priced a great shoe shine chair and footstool in the main lobby (feature only) and a drinks waiter who looked like Hercule Poirot complete with black hair slicked back with a pound or two of Brylcreem and matching moustache.



The gardens - these are OK but not a patch on those at the Sofitel Karnak - honest. What I found a little off-putting was the signs instructing you to keep of the grass. The swimming pool was OK (for the purpose of this report OK equates to about 6 out 10). At least it was clean and of reasonable size. What I can recommend though are the ice-cream sundaes at the pool bar/terrace. We went back on a couple of occasions during the day for these. They were full of fresh fruit salad; three scoops of ice cream, sauces, trimmings etc and at E£22 each were a real bargain.



New Winter Palace Hotel - adjoins the Old Winter Palace and shares the gardens and pool. In actual fact I think I preferred this hotel and bar - there were people - moving, just!



Hilton Hotel- now this is the pits and just about everyone who goes to Luxor knows. Why? - because all the other hotels ship their guests there on the day after arrival for INTRODUCTION TO LUXOR aka how the holiday reps try to rip off the holidaymaker even more than the poor locals. Yes folks this is where they get their captive audience - at a pre-arranged time (usually 10.30 am) buses arrive from at least 6 other hotels and you are ushered into a sub-terrain ballroom. You are then subjected to a presentation aided by a slide show from half a dozen reps on how to get the best from your visit. This takes about an hour and a half. Great you think - lets go. Oh no you don't. None of the buses are permitted to leave until those who have been indoctrinated have made the appropriate arrangements with the reps. In the end we gave up and walked down the short drive to the main road and got a taxi.



I forgot all of this of course does not necessarily make the Hilton a bad choice - but the following does. Firstly the hotel, gardens, pool, interior fittings, building exterior are all shabby. When you enter the gloomy hotel its like hitting Smokey Joe's caf - it reeks throughout of cigarette smoke. As I mentioned the pool and gardens are poor - pool furniture needs replacing etc etc. I know that many people who had been on a weeks cruise on the Nile and had booked the second week in Luxor at the Hotel where being encouraged by Thomson's to move at no additional supplement to the Sofitel Karnak as the Hilton was now considered to be sub-standard. Honestly if you have booked the Hilton get a transfer now - just about all the other hotels are better. It's time Hilton sold this hotel on - I fear it's too late for a refurbishment as the damage has been done, it has a bad name.



Sheraton Hotel - dark dismal, poorly kept gardens and grounds. In what can only be described as a cul-de-sac. Swimming pool the size of a postage stamp - poor choice - you can do better - much better.



Sonesta St George - Credit where credits due - this hotel is a much smarter affair, internally anyway. I thought the exterior looked a little decadent - or was that wishful thinking. No this hotel stands head and shoulders above it's competitors in Luxor centre with the possible exception of the Old Winter Palace aka The Morgue. A smart lobby, smart restaurants, smart bar - all staff here seemed extremely sharp. I visited here twice, the first time we had a single drink each, the second time about a week later we went into the bar and the waiter knew what we wanted - well done to the Sonesta. Can I find any fault - you bet I can - the hotel despite its good points is similar to a shopping mall - it's as though they have sub-let (indeed they may well have done) what can only be described as shop units which you have to pass in order to get anywhere - like Meadow Hall its all marble and clean but not where I want to spend a week or two. Secondly the exterior area, as I mentioned are directly in off the shabby street into the hotel - to the rear is the swimming pool and the Nile. This is another swimming pool that is truly postage stamp size and despite the small area the garden occupies it is not well maintained. There is a floating pontoon, which in effect give more outdoor area - but not very pleasant - covered in faded Astro turf and parched tubs of plants. Now if all you want from a holiday is a base from which to explore the sights and be right in amongst the mayhem of Luxor then the Sonesta will suit you fine. But if part of your holiday is relaxing by a pool in pleasant surrounding then the Sonesta, Sheraton or Meridian Hotels are not for you - if you have children they are definitely not for you or them.



Meridian Hotel - very close to the Sonesta St George, A monstrosity. Despite being fairly new it doesn't look good. Again straight in off the street and you have to pass through an internal courtyard surrounded by overlooking bedrooms. The courtyard contains seating areas, bars, cafes etc. Like the Sonesta much of the hotel is given over to secondary trading - but unlike the Sonesta these aren't shops but stalls - some may call it an authentic Egyptian Bazaar or Souk - I call it shabby. If at all possible the rear garden is even worse than the Sonesta and the pool is microscopic - you need to be on good terms with other sunbathing guests and just hope that filter system on the pool is working efficiently to remove the perspiration and sun tan cream from countless bodies - ugh!



Movenpick Hotel (Crocodile Island) - I had great expectations for this hotel but - yes you've guessed it - give it a miss. In theory this should be similar to the Sofitel Karnak - it's out of town and has plenty of space. That almost all the good points. We arrived there early evening and left in fear for our lives. Greeting us immediately outside the entrance were the usual security guards and what can only be described as two industrial grade Mosi Zappers - these were going off like continuous firecrackers as kamikaze mosi's flew unceasingly to a crisp end. Do I exaggerate? NO. Now the Movenpick has supposedly had a revamp but the interior didn't look anything too special - there was plenty of staff who seemed very efficient, but it was difficult to see exactly where all the money had been spent. We decided to risk a look at the pool area and gardens - I fear this is another area in which people may be disappointed - the lawns were Astro turf (Movenpick seem to prefer this type of ground cover in preference to grass - both of their hotels in Sharm el Sheikh use it to a great extent) a pity as it doesn't look good especially when worn and faded). The pools and surrounding area was a reasonable size but the pool furniture was rickety and needed replacing. Most of the tiled footpaths around the gardens were broken and with tiles missing. One or two brave soles were trying to sit outside but the mosi's must have thought it was feast day. On the flight home I spoke to chap whose family had stayed at the hotel - he confirmed that it had been hell and they were all covered in bites The reception staff provided each room with a plug-in mosquito repellent - which was fine until they left their room. Apart from the hotel entrance little seemed to be done to try and nullify the critters.



The bar I tried was reminiscent of an English city pub of the 1960's complete with fireplace. Good service, not particularly cheap - so my recommendation is - don't stay here unless you have the skin of a rhino.



TIPS



Haggling - this is a way of life for most traders in Egypt - it's a habit and there's no point getting harassed or angry by the continual assault of everyone from children to caleche drivers offering you every type of trip or service. It really is full on in Luxor; it put many people from going into town a second time. I reckon that in the first week you will have to say 'la shukran' (no thanks) approximately 50 times per 100 metres of travel - this does reduce by the second week when you have a better tan and they realise that you have wised up to them or have probably been on most trips. Whatever you do try to keep good humoured - if you show the slightest sign of being rattled they will simply look upon you as further amusement for the next 5 or 10 minutes.



Language - do try to learn a few simple words or phrases, believe me it works wonders, invariably they are highly delighted that someone as taken the bother to say please, thank you, good morning etc in their language.



MUST DO's



1. Change the bulk of your money at the ATM's or banks either in the hotels or Luxor town - all offers a fixed rate which is 10-15 percent more than you can obtain in the UK.



2. Turn right outside the entrance gates to the Sofitel Karnak and walk the 200 yards or so to the village - here you will come across a row of small one-room open-fronted shops all seeming to sell the same basic food items. Here you can buy large sealed bottles of water for E£3 or E£4 and cans of Coke etc for about E£3 each.



3. Do not pay more than E£20-E£25 for a taxi from the rank outside the hotel to Luxor Centre - that's per cab not per person.



4. Do not pay more than E£5 (50p) for a caleche (carriage & horse) ride within the confines of Luxor town.



5. Do not be taken in by a promise to take you to the various bazaars or markets - almost certainly you will end up at a shop where the caleche or taxi driver gets a percentage.



6. Never, never purchase a sight seeing trip from an hotel rep unless you have money to throw away - in which case my address is ..



Finally, do I recommend Luxor - yes, and I will be going back, but only to the Sofitel Karnak. To be honest it was the only hotel we have been to where I would have been quite happy to stay for the entire 2 weeks without stepping foot outside. It was only as we were getting to the end of the first week that we realised we really ought to make the effort to see some of the sights. So my recommended sights are:



Morning - In one morning you can see the Colossi of Memnon, Valley of the Kings (a single entrance pass entitles you visit any 3 of the open tombs with the exception of King Tut's (this carries an additional premium of E£70. Valley of the Queens (again 3 tombs per single entrance pass) - in actual fact I think you could give these a miss - Kings are better. Finally round off the morning to see Queen Hatchepsuts (think I've spelt that wrong) Temple. You should be able to get a taxi to take all of you - wait for you and then return you to the hotel for approximately E£80 -120. Allow a similar amount per person for the various entrance fees.



Day visit - to Edfu and Esna Temples - Edfu is approximately 75 miles upstream of Luxor and you will need a police escort. You should be able to get an air-conditioned taxi for approx E£180 - E£200 for the return trip. Again that's for the taxi not per person. Allow approx E£50 for entrance fees.



Morning - Visit Karnak Temple and Luxor Museum - courtesy hotel minibus will drop you off at either free of charge. Allow approx E£60 per person for tickets.



Morning - Visit Luxor temple - again free courtesy bus. Entrance fee about E£35. Then head inland behind the temple and try to find the main Luxor street market - this is great, free but perhaps not for the squeamish - I really enjoyed it, a real eye opener, you may well be the only Europeans present. Don't worry though this area is completely safe and almost 100 percent hassle free.



Two day trip - to Aswan - this is one trip I should have liked to have gone on but couldn't as the locks at Esna were closed for de-silting. It is possible to do it in one day by taxi but it's about 150 miles away (4 hours each way) and makes for a long day.



So hope you all have a good time - and if it's not too late, change your booking to the Sofitel Karnak.



PS - No, I'm not on commission!

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