Written on: 17/10/2010
This is my first scooter/bike and I'm very pleased with it. It's quite fast - acceleration could be a bit faster though (I'm a big guy though). It's very attractive and easy to control. Overall I love my bike and it's so good I'm not part-exchanging it when I get my next bike. Nice and reliable :-) (read more)
Written on: 01/04/2010
I love my bike but the spares are just to expensive.
I've been looking for rear shocks and what a rip off. The best price I have found is around £145 exculding vat.
What a rip off. If you think of it I only paid £600 for the bike and just the shocks are a quater of the price. MAD.
Also someone mentioned the choke. Yup, mines gone as well but to get it fixed is close to £100, again mad.
The thing is, if you look around you can find a complete card with a choke for around £50. So where do they...
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Written on: 12/09/2008
I ' ve recently bought a maxter 125; I found that it has good acceleration and a good top speed of 65mph which I am more than happy with as it is my first bike. My bike was recently owned by my older brother who had no problems with it at all so it leads me to believe that the bike is very reliable. Overall the bike is very reliable. (read more)
Written on: 07/08/2006 by b bonner
I bought this Yamaha Maxster 125 from a dealer two months ago and use it to get to work/20miles away. Great on fuel and free parking when you find the moto spaces. I got this as I was paying over £100 per month for parking! Now I spend around £8 per week. My car stays in the drive and I'm much happier not to have to pay someone all my money for parking. This is a great idea for anyone with the same problem!! The bike had belonged to an elderly man who had bought it in 2003 to use... (read more)
Written on: 29/06/2006 by jonnyjim
I bought this scooter for only £585. Its much larger than ordinary 50cc 2 strokes and higher aswell. I have done 65 on this scooter with no problems. Costs me £6 to fill up the tank which usually lasts me a week. I do about 25 miles per day 5 days a week and so far doing 65mph each day. It copes fine with this. The only problem I have had so far was with the keys. The seat release works off the ignition system and this has jammed. A new part cost me £50 but now works fine. Not as quick as 2... (read more)
Written on: 19/07/2005 by barbarossa
I purchased my Maxster in Jan.04 for only £750 even though it was only 14 months old. It was an unwanted gift that a man had bought for his wife and she refused to ride it - so he wanted shut of it asap. Power was poor when I first rode it but when I gave the machine a good examination, I found the spark plug was only half way in and was incorrectly gapped. Was it like this from new I ask myself? If it was, then it doesn't say much for the dealers pre delivery inspection.A new plug,... (read more)
Written on: 12/01/2006
Further update from Barbarossa - jan 12th 2006
<br>
<br>Re previous section. The imperial drill size should read 9/32" NOT 7/32".
<br>
<br>Also - update on parts prices. Yamaha want an unbelievable £5-25 +VAT EACH for the four bolts holding the forks in the yolks. £5-25 +vat for a bolt is simply robbery. Fortunately, I had 4 suitable ones in my box of bits which has accumulated over 39yrs motorcycling.
<br>Also, the price quoted by my local dealer for a choke was incorrect. They want an unbelievable £125 + VAT for the choke. This is for a an electrical component and approx !ft of wire. I bet it cost all of 10p in china!!. I have removed the choke unit, worked some WD40 into the body by activating the plunger by hand and so far it is OK. I will contact breakers to see what they have - it's bound to be the same choke on other bikes -they wouldn't make a choke just for this one make of scooter - it's too rare to make it financially viable.
<br>The saga of the forks gets worse. New fork legs are £100 each plus VAT and a full set of seals will knock me back £75 + VAT or just £25 + VAT if I try to get away with just changing the oil seals only.( ie - two seals @ £12-50 each)
<br>A complete new set of forks complete and ready to install is £370 including VAT so it's probably far less trouble to change all the front end given the difficulty of changing seals on forks such as these which have a spring loaded top "bolt" and therefore need some specialist compression tool to enable easy and safe dismantling of the forks.
<br>The components are obviously sub standard in terms of quality - nothing should corrode so much after only 3800 miles especially when the scooter is garaged every night. The difficulty in disassembling spring loaded forks makes me think that Yamaha want to sell you new forks or pay their official dealer to do the job for you.
<br>The cost of spares is outrageous. This is no cutting edge race replica but a ride-to-work scooter. How can they justify such prices? Not to mention poor quality!!
<br>I will be disposing of this machine ASAP and never again will I buy a Yamaha. In fact I may just finish with Jap iron altogether. If I don't manage to get an old large frame Vespa for a reasonable price, I think it's time to see what the Chinese have to offer in the way of cheap transport. After all, most so called Jap machines are either totally or partially made in China these days.
Written on: 12/04/2005 by Doots900 (1 review written)
I have owned this Yamaha Maxster 125 scooter for nearly 4 years, covering 18,000 miles, I felt the power was a little down, so being a full m/c licence holder bought a Malossi kit & uprated it to 170cc. It still returns 70 mpg, has a much better mid-range & appart from the electrical gremlins at 13,500m has been reliable, only major expense to date is fitting new head races, otherwise a practical sports Scooter. (read more)
Written on: 04/03/2005 by spacon (3 reviews written)
I had this Yamaha Maxster 125 Scooter for 3.5 years, recently traded in for a Jetforce 125. It was a good looking scooter and served me well travelling about 30 miles a day to work and back.
There were teething problems when I first got the bike, like a leaking radiator and speedo set up for km instead of miles (dealers fault). After around 12K miles the electric went and a distributor was replaced.
The engine was still OK after 17K miles with very little problems. My only problem with this...
(read more)
As rated by real users
"Scrap is not nice its Scrap" Read More
"GREAT GREAT!" Read More
"$1,800 worth of repairs after ..." Read More
"Reasonable machine at a fair p..." Read More
"Cant find Parts" Read More
Offroader's Response to 202446_barbarossa's Review
Written on: 30/12/2005
UPDATE by Barbarossa on DEC 30th 2005.
<br>
<br>As mentioned earlier, I have had to take the forks off to change the seals. The underside of the front mudguard has cut-outs which should allow removal of the yoke pinch-bolts with the forks in-situ, but one bolt was seized and the head stripped when I tried to undo it.
<br>Removal of the forks is straightforward enough - take off the handlebar covers, and remove the small panel (4 screws ) at the top of the legshields. You can get at everything now.
<br>There are 3 knurled ring nuts holding the forks in place with a tab washer underneath the top nut.
<br>This will break when you remove it - it's known as a "one-time" washer.
<br>The seized nut was a swine to remove. I turned the forks upside down to reveal the bottom of the seized-in bolt and left penetrating fluid in the hole for 48hrs. It wouldn't shift.
<br>I heated the cast iron yoke with a blowtorch hoping differential expansion would do it. It didn't.
<br>The head of the bolt was stripped so i ground it down to 7mm (8mm originally) but it still stripped even when using my impact driver on it.
<br>I cut a slot in the head of the bolt and tried using a large screw driver bit in my impact driver - all to no avail.
<br>Eventually I cut the bolt with a hacksaw in the joint of the yokes and freed the fork leg. There is a circlip at the top of the fork leg which prevents the leg dropping through the yokes even when the pinchbolts are removed. If you don't know it's there, you would never know why the legs will not drop through the yoke. These circlips lift out easy enough even with a normal screwdriver - you don't need a circlip plier.
<br>I then drilled out the remains of the bolt - CAREFULLY. I started with a 2.5mm bit and then a 5mm. Eventually I ended up using an imperial size - 7/32" - to clear the rusted in threads. I was then able to reclaim the threads with a tap of the same thread as the original bolt.
<br>But why is all this neccessary?
<br>POOR DESIGN AND INCORRECT MATERIALS - thats why!!!!
<br>The yokes are cast iron and the bolts were - unbelievably - chrome plated steel!!!
<br>Surely this is not done at the factory? Yamaha/MBK must have at least one meturlagist on their staff who can tell them about chemical reaction between iron, chromium and (acidic) water.
<br>Have the original bolts been replaced at some time?
<br>The forks were in terrible condition - so much pitting you would think they came off a 10 year old dirt bike, not a 3 year old scooter. I've ground all the rust and pitting off and will cover them with gaiters for the MOT. This ruse worked years ago on an old suzuki TS185 - I hope it works this time as new fork legs alone are £100 each plus VAT.
<br>What a rip-off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<br>The electric choke has been acting up too. Twice the bike has failed to start due to this sticking.
<br>This little piece of electric wiring costs £75 to replace. When my Yamaha didn't start I had to dig out my trusty old Vespa 100 ( I don't own a car ) which has a choke made of a piece of wire and a brass slide. No electric start on my Vespa - no battery either or even an ignition switch - but she is cheap and easy to fix.
<br>The Yamaha has to go. They aren't built to last like old machines and parts are outrageously expensive. I'm keeping my trusty Vespa 100 and getting a 180SS or 150 Sportique as my main machine.
<br>These old bikes are made for home fixing and are so simple to mend.
<br>Modern stuff? - you can keep it!!!!!!!!!!