Daisy Powerline 1000 Review

Overall Rating

Very respectable power. Included scope seems of decent quality. Can be highly improved upon with a little mechanical/gunsmithing knowledge. A great value, any way you look at it. Expect squirrels to drop without a twitch, or maybe even from a heart attack if you miss, but come close. The rifle hits true 1000 fps velocity with ~8 grain pellets by almost any munfacturer.

Has magnum air gun recoil. A little loud for target shooting in a neighborhood if you don't want people to know what you're up to. Out of the box trigger pull is probably 15-20 lbs. WAY too heavy to take advantage of the guns accuracy. Too powerful, and hard to cock for kids under 12...maybe too hard for some weaker adults. Didn't bother me, but I'm 6'2" 190 lbs, and reasonably strong. It has been smoothing out, though and getting much easier with use.

Well, I got this air gun from the academy for $49.95 during a 4 day sale. It included the scope and the mounts. It is very loud while breaking in, but quiets down a lot after as few as 50 shots. The trigger is just awful, so unless you just want to hunt at close range, or you are willing to work on the gun (which isn't too bad, but no walk in the park), stay away from it. The power is awesome though. This is my first spring-piston rifle, and I'm super impressed with the velocity. I have been shooting rim-fire and center-fire weapons for many years, and do my own gunsmithing on them, so I wasn't too unnerved by the priblems with the trigger. If you are willing to work on it, here is what I would suggest doing.

1- fill the rear of the stock with expanding foam to silence the spring noise that is booming through the hollow buttstock right in your ear.
2- Buy a longer screw for the trigger pre-travel adjustment, and smooth theend of it up. Only needs to be 5mm extra in length. Be careful not to go too far, or the gun will unlock itself while it is cocked back, and could be very dangerous. Safety here is more important than a hair trigger.
3- Remove the trigger group and polish all contacting parts. Then clip two coils from the sear spring, and from the trigger reset spring. (relaxing with coils with a heat source may also work, but I did the former method with great results)
4-Mount the scope exactly according to the instructions, making sure to set the rings in the proper location on the scope, and the rear ring against the recoil stop bracket on the top of the gun. My scope slipped around all over the place before doing this, and accuracy was very poor.
5- Loc-tite everything on the gun, including the stock screws. Even Blue loc-tite wouldn't hold the gun together with it's severe recoil (for an airgun anyway). I had to use red loc-tite.

I consider these steps mandatory for the serious shooter, especially if you demand accuracy that is better than just hitting soda cans at 50 feet. Also, if you would like to use the factory mounted fiber optic sights, you will need to replace the pin in the rear sight with an appropriate sized bolt and nut, and loc-tite it in place. Also, I have removed my factory open sights, and will be useing a 1 piece scope mount that sits lower, allowing for a better cheek weld to the stock. It should also hold the scope more securely. This is not an option if you want to use the open sights and the scope, which is just doable with the high see-through mounts that came with the scope.
Many thanks to it's creater Russell S. Sauer. If you are unsure how to do this work, his email is listed there, and he may offer services. I have not contacted him, though, and I am unsure of the date of this file, but it is great information. I am also in no way affiliated with him or his business. I'm just a dude that loves airguns!