African Safari Club, MS Star of Luxor Review

Overall Rating

This Nile Cruise was a fantastic journey down an ancient river lined with history, which is still in the making. The ship is of reasonable size and quality, a very stable ride. Nothing can beat watching the banks slip past as you sit on the upper decks sipping a coffee or fruit cocktail. The weather was hot, 30 degrees Celsius all the time, although on some afternoons back in Luxor there were clouds, apparently caused by wind blowing sand from the desert.

Staff seem to work in more than one area. Bedroom care is good and prompt, showers are always hot and regular, dining room care is quick and effective, they are friendly and willing to help. One morning when I arrived too late for breakfast at 9.40am, I was invited to sit on the rear sun deck under the shade and bar staff brought me a coffee gratis with my rolls and spread, no marmalade that I could find anywhere.

The trips out are a long list of temples and tombs. Seen one temple, seen them all but they are worth seeing, being gigantic, ancient and mysterious. They are also crawling with tourists. I was staggered that so many tourists, including me obviously, were allowed such close contact with such a wide range of very ancient sites. The optional trip to Abu Simbel is a conundrum. Up at 3.30am to join an armed convoy of buses for 2.5 hours through the desert. In our case, the guide insisted on playing a two-hour videotape of Egyptian monuments on the coach during the journey. The coach acoustics were poor, the tape was long and we had been told to take pillows from our bedroom in order to sleep. Copies of the tape were for sale!

The Abu Simbel temple is also one day out of alignment we were told, after being moved from the depth of the Nasser Lake. Could this have been a gigantic hype? Maybe I could see the details better on a TV programme but then I couldn't have touched the stones or entered the holy of holy area, along with all those other tourists.

I noted the sales-oriented guide above who pushed his luck too far in my case. There is selling at every corner in Egypt. The tour buses will stop on the way back at places like the Essence shop, the Papyrus shop, the Alabaster shop. You have no choice. You will be given complimentary refreshments of tea, coffee or fruit juice and given a talk to soften you up for the big sell. Do you want the essence of Chanel No.5? If so they will try to sell you a pack of four essences and twice the size you asked for and if you don't keep a careful eye on the price it can double. Mine went from £42 to £84 but the girl on the cash desk was tearful when I challenged my change, incorrectly as it happened. The papyrus making is interesting, especially for children who are willing to watch but I doubt so many of us wanted so many book marks at £1 each, especially when they are given as free gifts once you buy something. Street sellers will also sell you the papyrus pictures at any price.

The street sellers are very persistent. They will be present whenever you make a scheduled coach stop. Simply ignore them and pass by, if you can! I guess they are part of Egypt but you must be determined, as any weakness will lead to, for example, clothing they are selling being thrown at you. Stopping to sip a coffee at any point is rare. Once at Philae, once at Abu Simbel.

Being lectured for up to half an hour in direct hot sunlight before being let loose on the location can be exhausting. If you are young, old, tired, with a heart or other health issue or simply up too early, you may wilt after a while. One lady fainted and was taken to hospital, another returned to the boat unwell. Look for shade whenever you can and insist that your guide parks you in shade before starting to talk. The guides are often good and well educated but they are also trying to maximize their income, so take control of them if you can find a way. I liked Samar but would avoid Wallid.

With some regret, I report here that I have just spent two days in bed recovering from the sickness and diarrhoea I picked up whilst on holiday, with the help of a course of antibiotics. Others on my trip were similarly affected during the trip. This has taken the shine off the trip a little, especially as I liked the boat and it's staff and service.

This is an exciting but tiring holiday. Don't do it if you wish to spend a week resting. The cruising is restful but getting up in the early hours is not too easy to recover from before you go home. Avoid the light shows, they are daylight visits, repeated in the dark. Abu Simbel is difficult to recommend unless you must see those giant statues. The on-board entertainment is good and the staff decoration of your cabin each day is always a pleasant surprise. The staff work hard and are keen to please. The engines are noisy at times but you get used to it, along with the occasional diesel fumes.

If you go, ask for antibiotics from your GP in advance and take some re-hydration treatments and Imodium from your local chemist before you go. These are likely to be essential if my experience is a guide.