bosch sgs5313gb review

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Average Ratings
Ease of Use	7.3/10
Durability	3.5/10
Style	7/10
Service & Support	1/10
Value for Money	4.7/10
Reviewer Rating	5/10
Overall Rating	4.5/10

22% Recommended2 out of 9 Reviews

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Review of Bosch SGS5313GB Dishwasher

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Review 9 of 9

By Lindsay Ruddock. on 11th Sep 2002

Lindsay Ruddock.'s Ratings
Value for money	4/10
Overall value	4/10
Lindsay Ruddock.'s recommendation

Good Points

Worked well when it was working

Bad Points

broke down sooner than expected.
No repair instructions, no manual explaining to take it apart.

General Comments

My Bosch SGS5313GB dishwasher is two and three-quarters years old. It has broken down, doesn't heat and doesn't complete any cycle. Before it stopped completing the cycle I had noticed it taking longer than usual and there was a lot of soapy foam left in the bottom.
On top of it breaking down my other complaint is that I can find no repair manual or any kind of guide as to how to take it apart for simple diagnostics and fault finding. Despite the fact that it has an electronic control panel it has no diagnostics at all and is displaying no fault report

Can anyone point me towards repair information, how do you access the heater, the pump, the control board etc?

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82 Comments on Review by Lindsay Ruddock. for Bosch SGS5313GB Dishwasher

Richard. on 11th Sep 2002

Hi Lindsay, I believe Haynes (who do the car manuals) do a manual for home appliances which I once saw at my local library. I can't remember for certain whether dishwashers were included. Hope this is helpful
Lindsay Ruddock. on 13th Sep 2002

This Bosch dishwasher has now been fixed.
The fault was a burned out relay on the electronic control board. One pin of the relay had overheated, melted the solder on this pin (and only on this pin) followed by evidence of sparking over leaving the joint sooty.
The repair engineer told me this is a common fault on Bosch diswashers, and he had seen several with this precise same solder joint melted and sooty. I hope the problem has been addressed back at the factory by now.
One good point, when the engineer phoned in, he was told to replace the part for free although I still had to pay for labour, £60. This is general practice with Bosch when they know they are at fault. At least they didn't try to make a profit out of it.
I am now happy with the dishwasher and could even buy Bosch again.
Regarding DIY replacement, I am glad I did not take this approach as it would have been harder to get Bosch to free issue the replacement control board. The cost of the control board is £80
Neil Brown. on 21st Mar 2003

We had an identical failure on a Bosch SGS5312GB/12 after 3 years. In this case the timer unit was not replaced FOC and the repair bill was £140. The timer unit is fairly accessible but you need Torx bits to get at it. The old unit would probably have worked again if I had resoldered the relay pin. This is an obvious design or manufacturing fault and will fail on all the Bosch diswashers with the same timer unit installed. We always use the 65 Celsius intensive program so failure would happen sooner rather than later for us!
Neil Brown. on 24th Mar 2003

I complained to Bosch that it was a manufacturing/design fault and they have agreed to refund the cost of the part. Since I still have the original part and it appears eminently fixable with a soldering iron I have, at least, gained a spare timer module. To be fair to Bosch they did immediately agree to make the refund. Bosch claimed that there was no pattern of failures with this part but that is clearly not the case.
Lindsay Ruddock. on 6th Apr 2003

Interesting to read more on the breakdown I had.

I should add now that since the replacement of the electronic timer card, my Bosch SGS5313GB dishwasher has performed just fine, and I am quite content with it.
Nick Kay. on 27th May 2003

I have a SGS 5312 GB which is 4 years old. No complaints except spent £40 today to be told will cost another £180 to have main control board changed. Thanks for all who have contributed to this item. I now know I should have been charged £80 for new control board + possibly £40 for the labour to have changed it!
Tony. on 2nd Jun 2003

If it is an inherent fault then you do not need to pay the engineers costs.

It is up to Bosch to fix it for free...as they did with mine once I pointed out to them that I was a lawyer.
Nick Kay. on 3rd Jun 2003

Dear Tony.
I have now bought the part for £102 and fited it myself. I have also paid a non-bosch engineer £40 for diagnosing the fault.
What if anything could I claim from Bosch for a problem, that by reading this board and speaking to the engineer is very common.
Taking into consideration that I have had the machine for just over 4 years?
I hope you don't mind responding to this question.
Thanks in advance.
Regards
Nick Kay
John Stone. on 8th Jun 2003

Thanks for the advice, I have an SGS 5312 GB just over four years old and had exactly the same fault. I fixed it myself, but made the mistake of taking all the screws off the door. I think you can get by with just the top six, ease the control panel out, release the polthene clips exposing the PCB and solder the problem pin under the relay. It should take 10 minutes with the right tools, but it took me about one and a half hours. The question with a DIY job is how long will the repair last? Once this relay starts overheating the pin will it go again soon?
Jason. on 10th Jun 2003

John,

I have the same model as you, also around 4 years old. Last week it stopped mid-cycle and since then I cannot get it to fire up. Luckily the repair man (non-Bosch) didn't charge me anything to have a look at the machine but thought that it was the controller that had gone. Interested to see your message. I wasn't going to try a DIY fix but may now. Is there anymore tips you can offer in getting to the controller, how to release it, where the faulty solder is, etc. Ta.
Graham. on 12th Jun 2003

hello all,
I have a SGS5312GB and 2 weeks ago it stopped working.The engineer who came out to fix the fault told us it was the control unit which he replaced at cost of £80 plus £45 labour charge.
After reading this board I wrote to Bosch to request a refund.They have sent back a letter informing me that it was out of warranty so I was liable for the repair costs.What can I /should I do now?
Dan. on 9th Jul 2003

Hi Graham,

If an item is out of warranty, of course you have to pay for repairs yourself.

It would hardly be viable for a manufacturer to support all their products indefinitely after purchase.

Dan
Bob. on 15th Jul 2003

I would urge caution to those deciding to have a go at replacing or repairing circuit boards on machines like this without a certain amount of ability/knowledge.
Several components will damage the board if they fail. If the board is replaced but the faulty component is still present you will blow the new board creating additional expense.
If you repair the circuit board incorrectly you may unintentionally create a potential fire risk.
This board feeds the main heater, the relay is switching approximately 10 amperes at mains potential.
Andy. on 17th Jul 2003

I have had a SGS63426B for about 4-5 years. Recently it stopped heating the water as desribed in comments above. After checking the thermostat and heater to no avail I read some comments of this web page and decided to check the main control board. There I found a big black mark and solder splatter around one of the pins of the relay. I contacted Bosch but although polite refused to do anything but tell me it would cost £80 for a new unit. I re soldered the pin myself and now the unit work fine. I pointed out this website to Bosch but they refused to acknowledge any problems with their control units.
rbt on 17th Sep 2003

Self same problem with my 4 year old dishwasher. Having effected the repair as advised here, the heater works again but still have problem with water left in machine. Have described problem on forum page of this website (http://www.reviewcentre.com/forum109.html) any adice gratefully received.
jbloggs on 15th Oct 2003

Just to add more emperical evidence that there is fundamental problem with the controller board we have had the same problem with a Bosch dishwasher Enr. SGS6312GB/12. A relay on the controller board had 1 pin with the solder blown off. We have had the dishwasher for approx. 3 years now. We leave it on the 65 degrees setting all the time. Bosch have quoted a price of 97 GBP for the replacement board. The non-bosch engineer charged 40 GBP for labour. I can buy a new Hotpoint dishwasher for 230 GBP. Seriously considering a new dishwasher based on the comments on this bulletin board.
Dave Easey on 20th Nov 2003

I can echo the same fault as described above for my SGS6312GB Dishwasher.
I had given up the thought of fixing it economically until as a last resort I typed in the identification no. of the controller circuit board into Google.
Great Result: QER (http://www.qer.biz) in the UK will fix your board or sell you a recon one on an exchange basis. I think with postage it cost me around £50.
Martin Nichols on 23rd Nov 2003

I have what appears to be a similar problem on a slimline dishwasher model SPS5462GB that is just over 4 years old. The machine failed two weeks ago stopping mid-cycle without draining. I have had a look inside the machine, however, the timer/controller unit once removed from the panel does not seem to be as accessible as for the Bosch SGS5313GB. Can anyone offer any further advice regarding this particular machine? Is the PCB for the relay located elsewhere? I am seriously considering replacement as repair on a machine this old does not seem to be economically viable. I am not impressed with the Bosch dishwasher especially as our previous Electrolux model lasted more than 8 years without any problems.
draiken on 27th Dec 2003

We have an SHU5300 purchased in about 2001 or 2002? in the US. It recently started showing the same symptoms as above - would not heat, long cycle times (due to temperature sensor waiting for water to heat I believe). The lack of heat caused growth of black slime and subsequent smell in the washer, making everything worse. I was able to fix the unit myself (for now) after reading this board.

I took the door off and inspected the control board and found the blown solder joint on the relay pin (had to look closely, but found soot around the joint and lack of solder).

I also noticed that the black insulation (?) on the stainless door had sagged several inches near the controller (due to heat).

My fix included a modification that I hope will prevent the recurrence of the problem. My guess is that part of the poor design is the fact that the board must operate in a hostile environment due to heat from the washer (As evidenced by the sagging black insulation).

To help sheild the controller board from heat I added a 1/2 inch layer of fiberglass insulation between the board and the stainless steel wall. I fixed the sagging black insulation by using a hair dryer to heat it until flexible and then putting it back into place. To get it to stick to the stainless steel, I put a hot iron on the other side of the stainless and pushed on the insulation with a screwdriver handle - making a kind of "spot weld" between the insulation and stainless steel.

I re-soldered the blown solder joint and beefed it up by bridging it with solder to the other two pins on the same part of the circuit. I am hoping this will help by acting as a heat sink and making sure the connection is good. If you try this be sure you know a little about circuit boards and soldering (I only know enough to be dangerous).

The washer now works as it did before, and I have done several loads. This does seem to be a serious design flaw though, and is faiurly common basede on comments here. Bosch must be aware of it.

We like the other design aspects of the washer - it is quiet and it is easy to clean the interior.
jbloggs on 31st Dec 2003

Just for your information, we recently purchased a new Bosch Classix SGS43C02GB for 199.99 GBP at PowerHouse. If you get there quick they may still have them in stock. Beats repairing an old Bosch when the price of a new one is this cheap.
bpell on 16th Jan 2004

I bought a Bosch dishwasher in 1999, the model is 5312B. It went wrong 2.5 years later - not heating, stuck in wash cycle. I called out a Bosch engineer who knew immediately that it was the control panel (showed me a black sooty area on the PCB). He replaced the part free of charge and charged approx. £55 for labour. At the time I was quite pleased as I assumed that the part was replaced for free as Bosch knew it had been a design flaw. Another 2.5 years has gone by and the dishwasher has failed in exactly the same way. Thankfully I found this forum and my husband has soldered the board and that appears to have fixed it. However, I am disgusted that Bosch appear to have continued to sell dishwashers that fail in this way even after becoming aware of the problem. I am also disgusted at the high price of the replacement part should I need to purchase one (approx. £80). I will not be buying Bosch again. Thanks to all who have posted instructions on fixing the PCB.
Zaitch on 26th Jan 2004

Just wanted to add another experience of the SGS512GB. Ours is 4yrs old, just noticed in last few months the cleaning was deteriorating, discovered it was not heating up. Guess what, like others here, it was a burnt out point on the main control board. I suspect this probably happened after about 3.5 years (moderate domestic usage, 2-3 times a week) Having watched the engineer do it (10-15 mins!), I would definitely do it myself next time. I also kept the faulty control unit and will get it fixed ready for next time. Engineer said it was rare for the heater to fail, it was always the control unit. Annoying because it has performed OK up to this point
norrgrenp on 28th Jan 2004

I have a three year old SGS5312 that is dead.
I have re-soldered the pin on the relay that had burnt out the solder on the timer module board but the unit is still dead.
Anything else one can do? Visual inspection of the timer board does not reveal any other mechanical failure. Voltage to the transformers seems ok as well.
New unit the only option?
thanks and regards
-per
flaisney on 24th Feb 2004

Hello to everyone.

I just wanted to offer my thanks for the advice I found on these pages regarding the Bosch SGS5312GB.

I sufferred the same fault a few days ago on my 3 years old dishwasher. I took the control box apart, resoldered the faulty pin and ran a successful cycle.

It is interesting to see that community spirit and peer help do not just appply to the computer world but also to domestic appliances. I wonder if Bosch is aware of this trend?
strategema on 17th Mar 2004

My model is actually a Bosch SHU4322 but the control module seems to be the same as the ones described for other models. Bosch's part no. is 264877 and on one PCB there is a card mounted relay with a number AJS1311 on it.
One day the machine did not clean well at all and I found out it did not heat the water. I called the Bosch service center in Stockholm, they were vague and said it could be anything from heater elements, thermostat, heater switch, control module or wiring. They would charge 90 EUR just to send someone to diagnose the problem and then there would be more for parts and work. So I decided to take the unit apart and try to find the problem.
After some time, I found the burned contact on a PCB with the soldering gone and black spots around it. I thought that the relay probably was broken and I would have to find a new one to replace it. Put in AJS1311 in Google and found this site. After reading all these comments I was encouraged to just resolder the contact.
jimbunny on 22nd Apr 2004

I've had a SHU33A02 for 3 years. So far as I know, it's the cheapest Bosch dishwasher. It began washing poorly a few months ago. We have hard water and the lime stuff was caked all over the inside.

I ran vinegar a couple of times, wiped, scraped and cleaned what was blocking the drain pump and the spray arms. No fix.

I pulled it out and found the drain hose crimped. Still no fix.

I took the door apart to look at the circuit board. This model doesn't have a circuit board (which strikes me as an advantage).

I put extensions on it so I could run it outside of its box. It worked fine. I re-installed it and it washed badly. The final problem was a pinched water line.
Clark on 29th Apr 2004

My three-year old Bosch SHU 5312 started running very long cycles recently. I decided to attempt the PCB fix myself. Sure enough, one leg of the relay had an open solder joint. Soldered it up, and it appears to run OK. It is hard to believe there is enough current through that little pin and PCB to melt solder. 60-40 solder melts at 650-700 F. My pin looked off-center from the PCB, the original connection only contacted one-half of the pin, I suspect.
francoisgagnon on 6th May 2004

The wiring of my Bosch dishwasher from the door to the lower part has a problem.
One of the wires seems to be broken.
Do you know of any good Bosch repair manuals out there? francoisgagnon@shaw.ca
John Mason on 29th May 2004

Thanks to this forum have found the suspect relay solder joint and re-soldered. Previous over long cycles are back to normal but still no hot water.
Does this mean the heater unit is dead ?
norrgrenp on 1st Jun 2004

Reply to John Mason:
I had the same problem after re-solder. It was the micro chip that had gone on my board. I sent it off for repair by the company listed in the thread, they repaired it same day but still no hot water. I returned it as non-working and the repair company swapped it for a refurb unit that is working fine.
John Mason on 4th Jun 2004

An update, I re-soldered the joint and now have hot water as well. This one pin on the relay is not up to the job and Bosch should recognise this.
davidxxxxx on 7th Jul 2004

My Bosch SGS5313GB is just over 3 years old and stopped heating water 4/7/04. After reading the reviews above I was able to fix the circuit board and yep worked a treat. Foor all those DIY'ers here are a few hints. Electricity unplug at the socket - some forget!
Top 8 door screws to remove including the top two on the inside face.
Ease the top front of the door up and outward - it's a little tight.
The polythene cover over the Printed Circuit Board has clips on every side and hinges open. 2 additional clips which hold it to the circuit board have also to be unclipped. You don't need to remove the cover entirely - just open it up enough to see the circiut board.

The face of circuit board will show distinct marks of the overheated relay pin if this is the fault. It should be cleaned of all soot and solder splatter and the circuit board copper cleaned with the sharp point of a small screwdriver etc. for 2mm around the pin. Resolder the joint. I included a small additional piece of copper wire to connect it to the other pins on the same part of the circuit board conductor to prevent the localised heating effect which causes the defect in the first place.

Refit and ensure all cover clips click back into place.

Reinstall the front unit, refit screws and power it up.

If you are in any doubt - consult an electrician. - the charge for such a job should be around 30 quid.
PLUMBER on 8th Aug 2004

Ive got a Bosch SGS43A22GB/01 Dishwasher which is 18 months old and has stopped heating the water and no cycles work at all, and all it does is pump water in and straight out again ?

After reading this page I'm not surprised
francoisgagnon on 9th Aug 2004

Bosch Dishwasher - Since my last comment, I found a way to get at the wire in the door and I successfully repaired it. But thanks to no one as I did it by trial. The bottom wiring is of a very poor design. Oh, yes, by the way I had this repaired under warranty previously and I guess it had been a sloppy job. Still does not change my view on this appliance. The wiring is of a bad design.
John005 on 6th Sep 2004

Hi John here

I have an SGS5312 bought July 1999 that has reached the stage in a cycle where it just continues to pump out the water, even when empty. Any assistance on fault-finding would be appreciated. If you restart the machine (press two cycle buttons) it stil does not stop pumping as manual says after a minute. On a new cycle it attempts to start the cycle but then gets on to pumping out the nonexistent water. I bought Bosch on reputation but now wonder.
Richie rich on 29th Sep 2004

I purchased the Bosch SGS5313GB about six years ago. With it I took out an insurance cover that would last for 5 years and if I did not claim during that time they would give me £105 back. Well if you're on this site you will know these units break down after 3-4 years, which mine did after 3, so there was no chance of seeing that money. Anyway, it was the same fault as the rest of us, the unit stopped heating up. I thought it could be the heating element, but the engineer did not look at that he just turned up with the front controller and said they are always going wrong. (I was a bit annoyed by this as I felt that Bosch should have called back all these units or supplied a heavy duty controller). The engineer left with the controller and the unit was back up and running.
Guess what?...3 years to that day the unit packed up, again with a heating problem. Being an Electrical engineer myself I thought there is no way I am calling someone back again when I know what the problem is. Anyway I phoned Bosch and they told me the part would cost around £80 quid. 5 months later, I decided to give it a go, but before I did I searched the internet for a manual and up popped this forum. well I read all your comments on this and am now writing this looking at a board with the solder missing around the pin on the main relay.....what a joke.
I will write again to let you know if a resolder has done the trick, if not, it's straight down the tip. Other then that its a good machine when it's going going gone.
Dave Easey on 30th Sep 2004

Richie,
See my comment above in Nov 2003.
You have one option in between your soldering failing to fix it and taking it to the tip.
Look at www.qer.biz. Their business is in supplying repaired versions of these type of boards on an exchange basis. Go to the site and search for the serial no. on your circuit board.
It worked for me.
Dave
dominicf on 3rd Oct 2004

A word of thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I fixed my Bosch SGI5305GB (SGI5305GB/11 to be precise) with some solder and a soldering iron, and it is now working perfectly again (at least for the moment...)

I think Bosch's refusal to admit their fault to many users is very poor, as is their refusal to cover the labour cost. When we do have to change we will buy Miele. Our Miele washing-machine is as solid as a rock and has never given a moment's trouble. They are a real premium brand - and of course at a premium price - whereas I now think Bosch just do the premium price.
Richie rich on 4th Oct 2004

Good news, if you read my message in this forum you will know I was in the process of soldering the 10Amp relay pin on the main controller board. I said if it didn't work after that then its down the tip. Looks like it will be with me until I cannot fix it again.
dave parker on 26th Nov 2004

Can anyone tell me the best way of putting the door back on?? Took all the screws off to fix the fault and the spring section fell apart!!!

Help..
daveinottawa on 5th Dec 2004

I wish I had found this discussion -before-
I completely disassembled the bottom half of
my SH4302 to get at the heater thermostat!
Anyway I can report that this model suffers
the same problem, a poorly laid out circuit
board, with an undersized pad for the relay
pin, which overheats and blows. Fixed and
working fine again, thanks for pointing me
in the right direction!
rlouisa on 7th Jan 2005

One question though to all, I believe I am having the same problem as all of the people below. But my 5300 will go all the way down to 1 minute and stay there indefinitely. It is not hot any longer so I am thinking this is what is going on. If any one else has experience then please post a reply to this comment.

Thanks,

Ryan
RudyS on 8th Jan 2005

We have a SHU5302 and it had the same problem. The cycle took forever and the water would not heat. y wife called Bosch yesterday to find out if they had an idea how to fix it, and the customer service person was very rude to her. Bosch wanted to send a service technician out to look at it, but my wife told them that we wanted to try to fix it ourselves since we knew it would be expensive to have a service technician take a look at a now 4 year old dishwasher. Thank goodness I found this thread because the problem was a blown solder joint on one of the legs for the AJS1311 relay on the PCB. I re-soldered the joint and the dishwasher is back to cleaning as well as it ever did. Thanks to everyone here that provided feedback.
jaybonomad on 17th Jan 2005

Yet another vote for resoldering the relay in the center of the control board on an SHU5316. Prior to the fix, the primary failure symptom was that wash cycles would never complete. I soldered a heavy wire between the charred relay terminal and the destination heater element connector and it seems to have done the trick! Thanks all for contributing to this great resource.
flecky on 4th Feb 2005

Help! My SGS5313GB won't start any cycle properly. It lets some water in for a few seconds, then pumps it straight out again. After about 8 repeats, it just stops. I checked out the control board, mended the inevitable blown solder joint, but still no joy. Any ideas?
flecky on 7th Feb 2005

Me again. Just spotted a chunk missing from one of the chips on the control PCB. Probably collateral damage when the relay pin went up in smoke.
I've found a replacement chip, which costs 38p + a pint of beer to my friend who is handy with a soldering iron.
Fingers crossed.
PLUMBER on 7th Feb 2005

OK do as i did
if you know someone who sells bosh dishwasher's like say a kitchen company and you know them, get them to write out by hand WITH HEADING a bill of sale within the last twelve months "still in warranty" cos all the engineer wants is a receipt from bill of sale, if the machine is two or three years old just get the person to put on the bill that they sold it as a ex-display model within the last twelve months ?? it worked for me hey presto new circuit board and out let valve worth a try
daftvan on 17th Jun 2005

Can anyone please help. I have a SGS 5342GB/17 that wont heat up. Having read the above I thought bingo! that's the fault, but having stripped and closely examined the PCB there is no sign of burning. Is it worth just replacing the board or should I look elsewere for the fault. I cant afford a new machine and am uneasy about calling an expert out.
tunybgur on 21st Jun 2005

My six year old SGS5312GB has just failed and in my search for guidance I found this site.
Thanks to your help I have saved myself at least £140. The heater relay terminal was indeed blackened and burnt so I cleaned it up, re-soldered and 'hey presto' we're back in business. I also added a 15mm length of 1.5mm copper wire, tinned and slightly flattened bridging with the two adjacent terminals (on the same circuit of course) to act as a heat sink so hopefully it won't happen again. Altogether about an hours work.
flecky on 22nd Jun 2005

Hey ! Well done tunybgur !
My PCB fix wasn't so successful, and QER couldn't get hold of the EEPROM chip to repair it, so I had to buy a new card. But at least I saved on Bosch call-out charges. And I had the fun of taking it apart.
2james on 25th Jun 2005

SGS5312GB Dishwasher. Heater not working. Repaired in 40mins, same technique as 'Tunybgur' dated 21st June.
Glad I found this reviewers thread.. Thanks to all. Mike in Hainault, Essex.
Jonny H on 9th Sep 2005

A quick note of thanks Lindsay and all you Bosch owners out there for posting your findings, I had the exact same problem on my 5 year old Neff S4453 dishwasher - I guess it shares the same control panel or PCB (Siemens GV630) as the Bosch.
I always tend to use the dishwasher on the 65° setting and discovered the other day that the cycle was still running 3 hours after turning on the machine. On opening the machine there was still cold water in the bottom which was pumped out straight away when using the manual override, suggesting there wasn't a problem with a blockage or pump failure.
When I investigated the control panel pcb I could see straight away the one burnt out solder connection on the pin of the relay AJS1311 - I removed the component and went to google with the aim to look for a replacement part and found this thread, thanks to your posts I went straight back and re-soldered the original relay back in and used a piece of copper wire to provide the track repair around the failed pin. It's now working fine again and the Marigolds are safely back in the cupboard. Cheers!
Mark M on 25th Sep 2005

Just adding this note to thank all those who previously posted about their Bosch machines and potentially to help guide other owners of Siemens SE 26230 GB dishwashers to this forum. I couldn't find anything useful via Google about our machine until I noticed the similarity between the Siemens and Bosch products. The control board is obviously commonly used (as Johnny H found with his Neff) resulting in the same fault across manufacturers. Hopefully when Google indexes this site again it will pick up the Siemens reference to save lots of searching time for the next unlucky, marigold-clad soul.

The applianceaid site I stumbled across also has a picture of the offender:

http://www.applianceaid.com/newimages/boschdishwash2.jpg

Thanks again to all .
bravemargot on 21st Oct 2005

Having recently suffered the same problem with my four-year-old dishwasher as Lindsay Ruddock did way back in September 2002, I have just found this amazing site by Googling 'Bosch dishwasher faults'! Thanks to all contributors I shall now look for that pesky relay pin...
matthewteel on 27th Feb 2006

I wish I had found this site a number of years ago. My bosch has stopped cycling properly for the fourth time since new. Unfortunately, this time the pin on the AJS1311 is not melted so I really don't know what the problem is. I suspect the relay itself has gone bad. During one of those earlier service repair trips by an authorized repairman, he incorrectly replaced the heater element, when it was in fact the the pin on the relay. Anyone know how to test if this is the relay or the heating element???
krahu on 2nd Mar 2006

I just wanted to give another experience. Our dishwasher is a 6 years old Bosch Gran Prix. Until last month it has worked but then it went wrong. At the middle of a washing cycle it stopped, with a burning smell and no lights were on. Being an electrical engineer myself I opened the front and found a burnt pin on the main control board (Siemens 5WK5710 GV630). I went to the internet to see if I could find any circuit diagrams. I did not find anything (except for addresses of repair centers) and just this interesting forum. After reading the comments above I decided to repair the unit myself. I did not want to pay a cent for a technicians labour and for a new, badly designed, failed control board. To my mind it is not fair to ask for money again, for the design and development costs of the designed and failed board. The material cost for such a board would be a maximum 20 Euro. So I took the dishwasher apart and studied the wires. I drew the circuit scheme of motors, sensors and connectors. I figured out that the faulty relay pin is in the circuit of the current for the heating element. It should switch about 10 ampers. Seeing the board, thickness of copper, hole size, checking the relay and the heater (they were ok) my conclusion was the burning is just a result of an obvious design fault. Others in this forum have also indicated this opininon. I had resoldered the pin but unfortunately the dishwasher did not work so I investigated the circuit of the control board. I found a defect driver IC MC1413BD. The power pin was almost perfectly grounded. This IC, controls all the relays on this board. After replacing it (compatible ICs: ULM2003BD,ULM1413BD) the dishwasher came alive but it could not drain the cess-water. I analysed the PCB further and found the pin 46 of microcontroller has died. This is the control pin of cess-water pump. This should provide 5 Volt control signal to the replaced driver IC. I measured the signal levels during washing and saw that when the pump should work then this pin is on 320mV level and when the pump should relax it is below 10mV. By building a simple comparator with an LM339 circuit and inserting between the microcontroller and driver IC the dishasher recovered. Now it works, has performed couple of cycles. The cost of repairing was just 7 Euro. Of course taking into consideration the duration of repairing I would say the technician service is cheaper. But I enjoyed this kind of hunting and as I mentioned I did not want to be renumerating Bosch by buying a ridiculous new control board. Summarising, the burning of the copper around the pin generated high voltage impulses on the supply line. Via the transformator this destroyed the driver IC and the defect driver IC damaged the microcontroller partly. From now on I will not buy any Bosch products. I know that other Bosch products may have perfect quality/performance but there are a lot of competitors of them also... Somehow customers have to penalize companies and force them to sell quality goods.
bravemargot on 2nd Mar 2006

Nearly six months later, very glad to report that the dishwasher is still working fine, and the Marigolds are back in the cupboard... Once again, thanks to everybody for a splendid site.
jimwannop on 21st Mar 2006

Our SGS5312GB failed with exactly the same faulty relay pin on the control board (it was seven years old...), fixed by re-soldering the pin. Thanks everyone for saving us a £140 repair bill - and boosting my credibility with the family...
jimwannop on 29th Mar 2006

I had a heater failure on our Bosch SGS5312GB dishwasher and followed the advice given here. I removed the control panel by undoing the top four screws on the door, and then undoing the two screws at the top of the side of the door. Don't be surprised if the control unit is fairly tightly wired and difficult to pull out. The heater relay pin had blown it's solder, just as described on this forum, so I re-soldered the pin (using plenty of solder on the pin), dishwasher now works perfectly. Thanks to everyone for saving us a £150 repair bill. The machine hadn't gone wrong for seven years which is not bad for a machine used every other day!
john d on 12th Jul 2006

I have a Bosch dishwasher SGS 43A32GB. I had a fault on it a couple of months ago and after contacting Bosch they sent out an engineer who said thet it was the suppressor which had gone ( I had heard a loud bang and the smell of smoke came from the machine and it blew the fuse). This cost £80, the machine is only 3 years old so I was disappointed to say the least to be charged for this but, I was told, as I hadn't got an extended warranty I would have to pay.
I now have yet another fault ... The machine fills up with water, heats and then washes but the water doesn't pump out, can anyone help? I am reluctant to call Bosch again as they would want an arm and a leg to fix it.
cjewitt on 2nd Aug 2006

My SGS5313GB/12 lasted six and half years before the relay connection on the control board broke. Is this a record?
LindsayRuddock on 1st Sep 2006

Four years on from posting my original report is probably a good time to say that the replacement control board has been trouble free. I would now give this model (with re-designed control board) at least an average rating but I'm very pleased my posting has helped so many people.
Nick39 on 2nd Sep 2006

Thanks to the people on the Review Centre, about 3 months ago I was able to find the relay/pcb fault on my Bosch dishwasher. As often described, I resoldered the blown relay leg/pcb join with a bridging wire.

However, I have just had another fault. The symptoms were intermittent working during a cycle, including flickering LED indicators. Finally it went dead. With the board unclipped from the plastic housing, a similar blown joint was visible on one leg of the 0.22uF capacitor. This was again bridged with wire and soldered. Hey presto! It works! Fingers crossed for a few more months!
neil fynn on 7th Dec 2006

I have a Bosch SGS5313GB dishwasher, and thanks to the comments on the Review Centre site, I have just found a burnt out circuit board next to the big relay. I hope to repair this tomorrow, but it looks pretty bad. I have taken the whole machine apart to check the pumps, which is a long job, so I wish I had found the Review Centre site first. I will keep everyone posted.
Garcot on 15th Jan 2007

The same relay connection fault; repaired, but when taking the door apart, two identical plastic parts fell out at the bottom corners of the door. They consist of a flat plate about 2cms by 4cms, with six linked squared "C" shapes at right angles to the flat plate. Looks as though this clipped over something. Problem is, I cannot work out where they go or what they are for. Any ideas please?

Garcot
francoisgagnon on 26th Jan 2007

The dishwasher leaks at the bottom in the front on both sides, just inside the very front horizontal panel situated under the door. Luckily, the water drips in the tray and my wood floors are safe. But I do not know what is happening. I cannot see a float inside.

I still do think that the water level is too high. Any suggestions?
flecky on 11th Feb 2007

Hey Garcot - did you manage to fit those plastic spacers OK? I've just read your note, having done the same thing myself (but I've figured out how to refit them). I can describe or send you pics if you like. I forgot you don't need to take off the whole doo to get at the PCB.

My control board has just blown up again after only 18 months. I had to get a new one last time, since I blew a driver IC, and damaged the main microcontroller (just like Krahu). This time, the MC1413BD chip has blown again, but I don't know if the microcontroller is damaged.

Krahu - when you found the damage at pin 46 of the microcontroller, was it faulty by inspection, or did you have to power it up and measure signals?
RickBH on 18th Mar 2007

I have a Bosch SHU5306UC/U12 that had the 'no hot water' problem. After replacing the heater without success, I found this site and checked the circuit board. Sure enough there was a burned solder connection. I fixed it and the unit is working again. i would like to thank all those who contributed. I am in Canada and the dishwasher is about 3 years old. Same problem though.
krahu on 4th Apr 2007

Hi Flecky,

by visual inspection the microcontroller and driver IC defects were unrecognisable. The only what I saw the relay pin defect. I had to power the control board up and measure the signals to get the driver IC and mc faulties.

The prepared board works well so far...
Regards
bravemargot on 5th Apr 2007

Here we go again - Marigolds out! A year after my last euphoric comment it seems the heater has failed, because everything else works - it just doesn't heat the water - and the relay pin isn't burnt out. Is it worth replacing the heater, or even bothering to investigate further? And where's the best place to buy? Very inclined to ditch the whole thing and buy a new dishwasher. Manufacturer's planned obsolescence or what? All comments gratefully welcomed.
Garcot on 12th Apr 2007

Hi Flecky

About those strange plastic bits, no I gave up and put them in aside. (The dishwasher seems to work ok without but the door creeks as it is opened and shut). Yes I would be interested to know where they are supposed to go.

Thanks

Garcot
scottperz on 30th Jun 2007

Hi Krahu,

I think I may have a similar problem as you had with the dishwasher. It stopped working completely, without warning, the other day and after taking the main control pcb out I noticed the burned relay pin. I resoldered that, as well as a few cracked solder joints, but the diswasher is stop not functioning (at all).

Would it be possible for you to provide me with your electrical diagram that you created?

Thanks in advance,
Scott
mikeyfin on 11th Jul 2007

Modules with burned out pins should be replaced free of charge, any dishwasher not pumping out is either a blocked pump or faulty pump (faulty pumps are very very rare) either that or a pipe is kinked or your sink connection is blocked (very common).

Bosch diswashers are superb machines and the only thing that will cause them to fail is user error i.e. leaving to much food on plates. food like peas sweetcorn skins will not dissolve but will get past filters. they are not waste disposals. the food will then get forced behind motor seals and cause internal leaks., food will also block up pipes causing poor water flow over the heater and also block up the fill chamber causing the machine to under fill with water. and the heater will be over stressed and fail.

User error is 99% of dishwasher faults.
pablo123 on 14th Jan 2008

resoldering the joint worked for my neff. Uses the same control as the Bosch and Siemens dishwasher.
abacus on 2nd Mar 2008

Thanks to the forum for existing. I had the now standard blown relay pin on my sgs5312gb. I quick resolder plus heatsink copper wire to the other connected pins and all is now back to normal. £160+ saved. Thanks everyone.
I bought the washer 8 years ago and it has been coping with a family of 4 ever since. Poor circuit board design, but an otherwise excellent machine.

PS the plastic clips go over the hinge brackets at the bottom of the door if you have not worked that out or lost them over the past year.
alliterationArtiste on 15th Mar 2008

Can I also add my thanks for the posts and comments. Found this page at 9am. Fixed the problem by 1030 thanks to you wonderful people! For information (this is the 5351 btw) to locate and fix the dry joint problem: Remove door skin. You need a torx driver. About six screws down each side of the door. When you do this you'll probably hear a clunk as two bits of weird looking plastic drop out. Remove top plastic plate (with all the buttons in) by unclipping left, right and underneath. Unplug the control unit. I took a picture before I did this to make sure they went back right, but I suspect it's hard/impossible to make a mistake here as things are all keyed up. Unclip the control unit by pushing in the lugs along the bottom edge (only) Locate and remove the single screw on rhs of the door that holds the frame in used to support the control unit. This is the only one you need to remove as it gives you enough space to drop the control unit out. Remove control unit. Unhinge the control unit casing. The board you want is the one with all the relays on it (big black boxes) which is clipped into the housing. My dodgy solder join was close to the centre of the board and quite obvious. Sits on a large pad. Get your soldering iron out and patch/repair/bridge the joint. And (as they say) refit is the reversal of removal! Whoops. Forgot the clips. The clue for me was in the door skin. You can see the marks left where they go. This is hard to describe but the flat side goes against the door skin and they slide over the hinges at the bottom rhs and bottom lhs of the door. The chamfered/tapered sides of the flat bases point to the outside. Thanks again for all comments
twt on 22nd Jun 2008

Good thread. My Neff S4453 (same controller) needed a replacement board at 18 months (I paid labour) At 7 years I soldered the pin myself and replaced the plastic mounting which had gone brittle and the buttons "spring" was restored. Latest problem was long cycles, with a 65 degree wash taking around 4 hours and a noticeable increase in smell between daily washes (despite thorough cleaning). The pin was fine but a close look at the others of the same relay showed cracked joints as halos around the pins. All remade the machine is now back to less than 1hr 45 and considerably hotter in operation (I measured to now be 65 degrees). Hope this helps, Tim
nze123 on 11th Aug 2008

Hi scottperz & Krahu

I have a similar problem with a SGS5312FF/13; stopped dead in the middle of a cycle with water inside. Took it apart and found the burned relay joint on the PCB. Resoldering was not enough though.
The voltage on transformer secondary is less than 4V (rather than 10V) ; transformer, diodes and the MC1413 are quite hot.

Is there any chance that you could provide me with the diagram of the control unit ?

Thanks in advance,
Nicolas
scottperz on 12th Aug 2008

Hi nze123,

I don't have a schematic for the PCB. Actually we no longer live in that house any more and I no longer have any of the paperwork for the dishwasher.

If I recall, I was unable to find a schematic for the dishwasher and ended up buying a new board from an online parts vendor. Replacing that solved my problem.

Good luck,
scottperz
krahu on 13th Aug 2008

Hi nze123,
as I remember I had similar voltage drop on secunder side due to the defect driver IC grounded the power line. I had not any circuit diagram, I discovered myself the necessary part of board. Unfortunately now I cannot find any sketch about it. In the next days I will look for it. Our dishwasher has been working (and it has a lot of work to do in my family, three children) since two years perfectly with this workaround.
Regards.
nze123 on 14th Aug 2008

Hi,
Just a quick update.
Following Krahu's advice, I checked the MC1413 and it seemed to be the one driving down the power supply ; I changed it for a ULN2003A which is an equivalent. The machine came back alive, but was stuck in the begining of the cycle.
Then I looked for weaker signals and found the pin47 of microcontroler was max 0.7V instead of 5. It did as Krahu suggested : insert a LM393-based circuit in the driver line ; that did the trick for a while, but the pin47 voltage came down again to ca 0.5V.
Also the cycle was behaving weird : water inflow, then trigger of the drain water pump, like safety drainage due to leaking system. All organs seemd OK, so I supposed the microcontroller was definitely dead and got a new one, which ran perfectly for a couple of cycles today.
cricketer40 on 4th Oct 2008

I have a WFL245SGB, which is about 4/5 yrs old. This morning it has decided not to work. It partially fills up then stops - no cycle - however, it will drain. I think it is the circuit board. Should I call out a Bosch enginner, or an independant. Should it be the board I would imagine it is a simple job therefore, what will the engineer charge and how much is a board?

Any comments appreciated.
JP

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